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ERECTING    WORK 


TIJE   POWER   HANDBOOKS 

The  best  library  for  the  engineer  and  the  man  who  hopes 
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BY    PROF.    AUGUSTUS    H.    GILL 

OF  THE  MASSACHUSETTS   INSTITUTE  OF   TECHNOLOGY 

ENGINE  ROOM  CHEMISTRY 

BY  HUBERT   E.   COLLINS 

BOILERS  KNOCKS  AND  KINKS 

SHAFT  GOVERNORS  PUMPS 

ERECTING  WORK  SHAFTING,    PULLEYS     AND 

PIPES  AND  PIPING  BELTING 

STEAM  TURBINES 

BY  F.  E.  MATTHEWS 
REFRIGERATION.    (In  Preparation.) 


McGRAW-HILL  BOOK  COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS,  BOOKSELLERS  AND  IMPORTERS 
239  WEST  39TH  STREET,  NEW  YORK 

6  BOUVERIE  STREET,  LONDON,  E.G. 


THE    POWER    HANDBOOKS 


ERECTING  WORK 


COMPILED  AND  WRITTEN 
BY 

HUBERT    E.    COLLINS 
n 


NEW  YORK 

McGRAW-HILL  BOOK  COMPANY 

239   WEST  39TH  STREET 

1908 


Copyright,  1908,  BY  THE  HILL  PUBLISHING  COMPANY 
A II  rights  reserved 


CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

I    FOUNDATIONS i 

II     KNOTS  AND  HITCHES 18 

III  HAULING  HEAVY  MACHINERY  THROUGH  CITY  STREETS  26 

IV  RUNWAYS  ON  AN  INCLINE 36 

V    WORK  FOR  A  GIN  POLE 44 

VI    RIGGING  FOR  THE  RECEIVER        52 

VII     MOVING  A  CYLINDER 64 

VIII    UNLOADING  A  HEAVY  SHAFT 75 

IX    RIGGING  FOR  A  HEAVY  LIFT 89 

X    BUILDING  UP  A  FLY-WHEEL 101 

XI    THE    ERECTION     OF     HIGH-SPEED     CENTER-CRANK 

ENGINES in 

XII    SOME  OF  THE  LIGHTER  WORK  IN  ERECTING.      .     .     .  130 


196185 


FOUNDATIONS 

AN  engine,  to  be  properly  set,  must  be  set  rigidly. 
It  is  necessary  to  have  the  foundation  of  ample  size, 
rightly  proportioned,  of  good  material,  and  skilfully 
built.  The  nature  of  the  ground  must  be  carefully 
considered  and  provision  made,  in  preparing  it  for  the 
foundation,  to  reduce  the  liability  of  settling  to  a 
minimum. 

Concrete  foundations  for  engines  have  come  into 
general  use  throughout  the  country,  owing  to  their 
cheapness  and  durability,  and  some  points  on  the 
building  of  these  will  be  of  service.  Material  for  the 
foundations  should  be  the  best  of  its  kind.  The  stone 
(if  stone  is  used)  should  be  broken  clean  and  dry. 
The  sand  should  be  coarse  and  gritty. 

Wet  a  small  quantity  of  cement,  and  mold  it  in  the 
hands;  then  put  the  sample  away  and  see  how  long  it 
takes  it  to  set.  After  it  has  set,  see  how  much  pound- 
ing will  be  required  to  break  it  up.  By  these  simple 
means,  bearing  in  mind  that  good  cement  should  set 
in  twenty-four  hours,  or  less,  the  quality  of  the  cement 
can  be  readily  determined. 

The  length  of  time  it  takes  a  foundation  to  set  before 
weight  may  be  safely  placed  on  it  can  be  ascertained, 


2  ERECTING   WORK 

a  day  or  two  after  placing  the  foundation,  by  drilling 
into  the  side  for  a  distance  of  12  in.  or  so.  Beyond 
12  in.  the  concrete  will  not  be  dry  for  several  weeks, 
but  it  should  be  stiff  enough  to  make  some  show  of 
resistance  after  the  first  few  days.  Unless  it  does  so, 
weight  should  not  be  placed  upon  it. 

In  "made"  ground  it  is  often  advisable  to  drive 
piles,  and  if  they  are  kept  submerged  in  water,  or  if  the 
ground  is  continually  wet,  the  piles  will  not  decay. 
The  use  of  wood  should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible, 
however,  because  of  its  elasticity  and  its  propensity 
to  decay. 

If  a  concrete  foundation  is  to  be  built  in  the  ground, 
with  the  top  extending  a  few  inches  above  the  finished 
floor  line,  molds  will  not  be  needed  for  the  body,  but 
only  the  top  is  molded.  A  simple  excavation  of  suf- 
ficient size  and  depth  is  all  that  is  necessary,  and  after 
the  templet  and  foundation  bolts  have  been  located 
the  excavation  is  filled  in.  The  size  of  the  excavation 
depends  on  the  dimensions  and  shape  of  the  founda- 
tion plans  furnished  by  the  manufacturer.  It  should 
be  large  enough  to  allow  for  the  foot  measurements 
shown  on  the  plans. 

If  no  foundation  plans  are  furnished,  but  only  a 
center-line  plan  of  the  bolts,  some  knowledge  of  the 
principles  of  foundation  designing  is  requisite.  All 
well-designed  foundations  are  widest  and  longest  at 
the  bottom,  thereby  securing  large  bearing  surface, 
lessening  the  liability  of  settlement,  and  affording 
greater  resistance  to  strain. 

When  the  ground  is  soft  and  moist,  the  foundation 


FOUNDATIONS  3 

should  be  flared  considerably  more  than  ordinarily  at 
the  bottom,  to  further  resist  the  tendency  to  settle. 
If  the  foundation  is  built  in  quicksand  and  piles  are 
not  used,  good  results  can  be  secured  by  first  laying 
two  courses  of  oak  planks,  well  spiked  together,  ex- 
tending some  distance  beyond  the  base  of  the  founda- 
tion on  all  sides,  the  planks  being  2  or  3  in.  thick. 
The  first  course  should  be  laid  lengthwise  of  the  founda- 
tion and  the  second  crosswise  of  the  first. 

These  instructions  are  only  general,  of  course,  and 
the  erecting  engineer  should  use  his  judgment  as  to 
how  far  to  depart  from  the  dimensions  given  in  the 
builders'  plans;  or,  in  the  event  of  there  being  no 
plans,  how  far  to  extend  the  foundations  beyond  that 
of  precedent. 

The  forces  which  foundations  are  designed  to  resist 
are  principally  three  in  number:  First  and  greatest 
weight  (or  gravity),  which  is  always  vertical  in  direc- 
tion; second,  inertia;  third,  the  pull  of  the  main  belt  or 
rope,  when  the  unit  is  not  direct-connected.  "  Inertia" 
may  be  subdivided  into  two  classes:  those  of  "rotation" 
and  "reciprocation."  The  former  is  called  centrifugal 
force,  and  the  latter  comprises  the  alternating  forces 
of  acceleration  and  retardation. 

The  forces  of  reciprocation  act  along  the  line  of  the 
piston's  movement.  The  force  of  rotation  acts  in  all 
directions  radially  from  the  center  of  the  crank-disk. 
The  forces  of  reciprocation  become  a  very  powerful 
component  of  the  entire  force  exerted  on  the  founda- 
tion when  the  speed  is  high  and  the  "counterbalance" 
light.  This  reciprocatory  influence  and  the  force  of 


4  ERECTING   WORK 

gravity,  acting  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  produce 
a  combined  effort  which  is  neither  horizontal  nor 
vertical,  but  at  a  greater  or  less  inclination  from  the 
vertical,  according  to  their  relative  magnitudes. 
When  they  are  equal,  the  resultant  angle  will  be 
45  deg.  from  the  vertical;  when  the  inertia  of  recipro- 
cation is  greatest,  the  angle  will  be  "greater"  than 
45  deg.  or  more  nearly  horizontal;  if  the  inertia  force 
is  less  than  gravity,  the  inclination  of  the  angle  will 
be  less  than  45  deg.  or  nearer  vertical. 

Since  in  no  case  where  these  two  forces  act  at  angles 
to  each  other  the  resultant  strain  —  their  combined 
effort  —  is  vertical,  but  is  always  inclined  more  or 
less  outward,  away  from  the  engine  bed,  it  is  essential 
to  build  the  foundation  longest  on  the  bottom,  taper- 
ing gradually  to  within  12  in.  of  the  top,  so  these 
resultant  strains  will  be  met  directly  by  the  resisting 
force  of  the  masonry.  The  higher  the  rotative  speed 
of  the  engine  the  more  essential  it  is  to  have  the  ends 
of  the  foundation  thus  braced. 

According  to  the  laws  of  inertia,  "the  forces  of  re- 
ciprocation and  rotation  increase  with  given  stroke  as 
the  squares  of  the  revolutions  of  the  crank,  and  with 
given  rate  of  rotation  directly  as  the  length  of  stroke." 
Therefore,  if  the  speed  of  an  engine  is  doubled,  the 
forces  of  reciprocation  and  rotation  are  quadrupled. 
If  the  stroke  is  then  doubled,  these  forces  become 
eight  times  as  great  as  they  were  at  the  former  rates  of 
rotation  and  stroke. 

The  effect  of  reciprocation  is  modified  more  or  less 
by  placing  a  counterweight  in  the  opposite  side  of  the 


FOUNDATIONS  5 

crank  from  the  crank-pin.  This  counterweight  opposes 
the  forces  of  reciprocation,  being  in  effect  a  centrifugal 
force,  or  force  of  rotation,  which  acts  in  direct  opposi- 
tion to  them  at  the  ends  of  the  stroke  only  and  exerts 
its  full  force  upon  the  main  bearing  and  front  end  of 
the  foundation  at  midstroke,  in  a  direction  at  right 
angles  to  the  forces  of  reciprocation. 

In  horizontal  engines,  this  counterweight  force  acts 
alternately  in  the  same  and  opposite  directions  to  that 
of  gravity,  but,  unlike  gravity,  acts  at  the  crank  end 
of  the  frame  only,  requiring  a  foundation  resistance 
directly  beneath  it.  Suppose,  then,  the  weight  of  the 
engine  to  be  equally  distributed  along  its  entire  length 
—  greater  strength  would  be  required  in  the  front,  or 
crank  end,  than  in  the  back,  or  cylinder  end,  of  the 
foundation,  and  this  is  particularly  true  of  founda- 
tions for  high-speed  engines. 

The  resultant  of  forces  acting  upon  any  point  in  the 
engine  frame  may  be  found  by  the  following  method: 
The  heavy  pointed  lines  in  Fig.  i  represent  the  different 
forces  and  their  direction,  which  are  here  spoken  of  as 
acting  on  a  horizontal  reciprocating  engine  belted  to  its 
work.  The  lines  of  force  are  shown  lying  in  the  direc- 
tion in  which  they  act,  all  meeting  at  a  common  point, 
as  at  C.  Let  two  of  these  lines,  as  C  A  and  C  /,  form 
adjacent  sides  of  a  parallelogram,  C  A  M  I;  then  the 
diagonal  C  M  will  be  the  resultant  of  these  two  forces. 
Now,  with  C  E  and  C  D  as  two  sides,  construct  the 
parallelogram  C  E  F  D.  The  diagonal  C  F  will  be 
the  resultant  of  the  three  forces  C  /,  C  A  and  C  D. 

The  meaning  of  the  pointed  lines  is  as  follows:  The 


6  ERECTING   WORK 

line  CA  represents  the  force  of  reciprocation  on  a 
horizontal  bed;  C  /  is  the  weight  strain  and  CD  the 
belt  strain.  The  line  C  B,  opposite  and  equal  to  C  A, 
represents  the  inertia  force  on  the  return  stroke.  The 
forces  of  reciprocation  surge  forward  and  backward, 
giving  a  "sailing"  motion  torthe  engine  frame  when 
insecurely  fastened  to  and  held  by  the  foundation. 


M/ 


Vertical  engines  act  more  directly  downward  upon 
their  foundation;  both  weight  and  the  forces  of  re- 
ciprocation acting  in  that  direction,  the  former  always 
downward  and  the  latter  alternately  upward  and  down- 
ward. In  this  type  of  engine  it  is  the  force  of  rotation 
which  necessitates  widening  the  foundation  at  the 
bottom ;  therefore,  the  force  developed  by  the  counter- 
weight has  the  same  tendency  to  tip  the  foundation 
over  as  have  the  forces  of  reciprocation  in  horizontal 


FOUNDATIONS  7 

engines.  But  counterweights  should  not  be  propor- 
tionately as  large  in  vertical  engines  as  in  horizontal 
engines,  for  the  reason  that  their  effect  is  resisted  with 
more  difficulty  than  are  the  vertical  strains  of  recipro- 
cation. 

In  all  foundations  it  is  easier  to  provide  for  vertical 
than  horizontal  strains.  The  mass  and  form  of  foun- 
dation, for  either  a  vertical  or  a  horizontal  engine, 
should  be  subject  to  modification,  according  to  the 
speed  at  which  the  engine  is  to  be  run,  the  weight  of 
reciprocating  parts  and  the  proportion  of  counter- 
balance to  that  weight.  It  should  be  remembered  that 
increasing  the  counterbalance  increases  the  force  of 
rotation,  while  decreasing  it,  generally  speaking, 
leaves  a  larger  force  of  reciprocation  unresisted  within 
the  engine,  increasing  its  effort  upon  the  foundation 
at  a  given  rate  of  rotation. 

With  a  vertical  turbine  the  only  force  which  acts 
upon  the  foundation  is  that  of  weight,  or  gravity. 
The  twisting  strain  between  the  motor  and  generator 
is  taken  up  by  the  frame  itself.  With  a  horizontal 
turbine,  the  strain  on  the  foundation  is  that  of  weight, 
and  unless  the  frame  is  sufficiently  strong,  the  twisting 
strain  also  acts  upon  it.  The  frames  are  supposed 
to  be  strong  enough,  however,  to  take  up  all  twisting 
strain. 

Having  pointed  out  certain  essential  features  which 
govern  design,  it  will  be  as  well  to  consider  the  con- 
struction of  the  foundation.  Concrete  foundations 
will  be  considered  first,  although  the  foregoing  applies 
to  any  kind  of  foundation. 


8 


ERECTING  WORK 


The  dimensions  and  shape  of  the  foundation  having 
been  decided  on,  a  mold  must  be  made.  The  inside 
dimensions  of  the  mold  must  be  equal  to  the  dimensions 
it  is  desired  to  make  the  foundation,  of  course.  The 
mold  may  be  made  of  planks,  sufficiently  heavy  to 
withstand  all  pressure  and  strain  of  tamping  the  con- 
crete, without  "giving." 

If  the  foundation  is  to  remain  rough  on  its  surfaces, 
just  as  it  comes  from  the  mold,  care  should  be  taken 


Would 


Furring 


FIG.  2 

so  to  construct  the  mold  as  to  leave  clean,  uniform  sur- 
faces. When  it  is  intended  to  give  the  foundation  an 
extra  finish,  furring  is  nailed  to  the  inside  of  the  mold. 
When  the  mold  is  removed  the  furring  will  remain 
imbedded  in  the  surface  of  the  concrete  and  furnish  a 
hold  for  the  finish.  This  furring  should  be  fastened 
lightly  to  the  inside  of  the  mold,  as  in  Fig.  2. 

If  the  foundation  is  to  be  located  so  the  lower  ends 
of  the  bolts  will  be  accessible,  recesses  should  be  pro- 


FOUNDATIONS 


vided  in  the  sides  so  nuts  can  be  placed  over  plates  on 


the  lower  ends  of  the  bolts,  as  in  Fig.  3.    The  openings 
for  the  foundation  bolts  should  be  provided  for  in  the 
le  molds  by  boxes,  or  inserting  pieces  of  pipe  where  the 
bolts  are  to  come. 


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^^^•^vi  !-   'k      *   ''  V//^ 

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'.  •'•  '.'.  J.'  '•'.  '•'  '.'•'"  ::.'  ' 

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•;..-  '-•~f"'.'.'r-*':-'^  '.  ..*  •'  ••'. 

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Vr^J^VV; 

-:    ''•''•  '    ,  '.'j.  .;  •..'•':  *     [  '*•'-.  ' 

••  :  '.•'  ;t  '•.'•••'.•.:'•••''••  :'.  ' 

'*•._.'-*•••-  ,*t   *-    '    *,^"»-'-    '*      •/ 

•':  ••  -  •''  :•'•  .'  ;  ~  :.  "  •'•  '•'  '**'  '• 

'••'?  r/V**/  :•"""'  >'-.^ 

\-'':'-:''''"'^    ;^:-'^. 

../'VV-.;;'<,;^'''-;:'.^;. 

FIG.  3 

The  safest,  as  well  as  the  quickest,  way  is  to  suspend 
the  bolts  from  the  templet  over  the  mold  with  the  nuts 
and  plates  in  position,  box  the  plate  in  at  the  lower  end 
and  slip  over  each  bolt  a  section  of  pipe  long  enough 
to  reach  to  the  foundation  top;  or  a  wooden  box  can 
be  made  to  serve  the  purpose.  When  the  casing  is 
placed  over  the  bolt,  pack  rags,  waste,  or  paper  in  the 
top,  so  as  to  hold  the  bolt  central  in  the  casing. 

How  TO  SET  THE  TEMPLET 

Templets  are  furnished  by  most  engine  builders, 
and  the  makers'  templets  are  the  best.  They  are 


•10 


ERECTING   WORK 


usually  made  with  the  outside  edges  of  the  templet  of 
the  same  dimension  as  the  top  of  the  finished  founda- 
tion; and  in  the  case  of  concrete  foundations  sometimes 
the  templet  can  be  built  into  the  top  of  the  mold.  If 
this  is  done,  the  templet  must  be  placed  with  its  bottom 
face  corresponding  in  position  to  the  finished  surface 
of  the  foundation,  and  the  bolts  held  high  enough  to 
allow  for  the  thickness  of  nut  and  frame  casting. 
This  can  be  done  by  screwing  the  bolts  far  enough 
through  the  nuts  on  top  of  templet. 


Templet 


FIG.  4 

Figure  4  shows  how  the  templet,  nut  and  bolt  would 
look  in  the  heavy  lines,  set  to  bring  the  bolt  to  a  cor- 
responding hight  with  the  frame  casting  and  nut  in 
its  final  position,  as  shown  by  dotted  lines. 

When  the  foundation  bolts  are  suspended  so  that 
their  weight  is  on  the  templet,  the  latter  should  be 
reinforced  strongly  so  the  templet  will  not  sag  and 
leave  the  bolts  at  the  wrong  level.  When  the  templet 
and  mold  have  been  placed  on  their  proper  level  with 
the  bolts  in  place,  the  templet  must  then  be  set  inline. 


FOUNDATIONS  1 1 

On  the  templet  are  marked  the  center  lines.  In 
a  horizontal  engine  there  will  be  two  lines,  at  right 
angles  to  each  other,  marked  on  the  templet,  the  center 
line  of  the  cylinder  and  the  center  line  of  the  shaft. 
These  lines  will  correspond  with  a  b  and  e  /,  Fig.  5,  and 
are  used  for  reference  in  lining  up  the  templet.  If  the 
engine  is  to  be  connected  with  a  jack  or  line-shaft,  then 
the  center  line  of  the  engine  shaft  should  be  parallel 
with  the  jack  or  line-shaft  and  the  center  line  of  the 
cylinder  at  right  angles. 

To  set  the  templet  lines  true,  set  up  a  line  from  tar- 
gets on.  the  wall  to  correspond  with  the  center  line  of 
the  shaft.  This  line  can  be  at  any  convenient  hight, 
but  its  two  ends  should  be  the  same  hight,  and  it  should 
be  stretched  as  taut  as  it  will  stand.  Then  set  up  a 
line  from  the  walls,  to  correspond  with  the  center  line 
of  the  cylinder,  the  same  hight  as  the  other  and  as 
taut. 

To  get  these  lines  at  right  angles  with  each  other, 
mark  off  two  points,  c  and  d  on  the  line  e  f,  Fig.  5, 
which  will  be  six  feet  from  the  point  g,  and  then  mark 
off  the  point  1,  eight  feet  from  the  point  g  on  the  line 
a  b.  Mark  the  points  c,  d  and  /  with  thread  tied  to  the 
cord.  If  the  two  lines  a  b  and  e  f  are  exactly  at  right 
angles,  the  distances  c  I  and  d  I  will  each  be  exactly 
ten  feet.  If  it  is  not,  then  the  position  of  the  line  at 
fault  must  be  changed  until  the  distance  is  right.  Be 
sure  to  keep  the  measurements  c  g,  d  g  and  /  g  exactly 
as  given. 

If  these  distances  can  be  doubled  to  12,  16  and  20 
feet,  the  chances  for  error  will  be  fewer.  After  these 


12 


ERECTING   WORK 


lines  are  set  true  they  can  be  used  for  reference  to  set 
the  templet  lines  by.  If  they  are  above  the  templet, 
plumb  lines  can  be  hung  over  them  and  plumb  bobs 
dropped  down  to  serve  as  guides  to  bring  the  templet 
into  position.  After  the  templet  is  set,  secure  it  in 
place  so  there  is  no  possibility  of  its  moving.  The 
mold  under  it  must  also  be  carefully  secured  and 
braced  in  place. 


FIG.  5 


If  a  vertical  reciprocating  engine  is  to  be  set,  the 
center  line  of  the  shaft  will  be  the  only  one  marked  on 
the  templet.  Turbines  need  not  be  set  accurately, 
except  that  the  piping  surfaces  must  come  in  line,  and 
for  convenience  of  location. 

Having  set  the  templet  and  mold  in  position,  with 
the  foundation  bolts  in  place,  the  actual  mixing  and 
placing  of  the  concrete  is  in  order.  First,  place  the 


FOUNDATIONS 


proper  amount  of  stone  in  a  pile  and  wet  it;  at  the  same 
time  have  some  one  mix  the  sand  and  cement  in  another 
pile,  the  two  piles  being  side  by  side,  as  in  Fig.  6.  Wet 


A  ////'^l's^'  -*-  \ 


FIG.  6 


both  piles  thoroughly.  Put  the  mortar  on  top  of  the 
stone,  as  in  Fig.  7,  and  start  to  mix  the  two.  They 
should  be  mixed  thoroughly  by  hand,  first,  and  then, 


FIG.  7 

beginning  on  each  side  of  the  pile  of  mortar  and  stone, 
shovel  it  into  two  piles  turning  each  shovelful  over  in 
so  doing.  After  making  two  piles  of  the  mixed  ma- 
terial, shovel  them  back  into  the  center  again  into  one 
pile.  The  proper  proportions,  using  good  materials, 
are  six  parts  stone,  three  parts  sand  and  one  part 
cement  (written  6-3-1). 

Then  begin  filling  the  mold  with  the  mixed  concrete. 
If  the  mold  is  too  deep  the  concrete  should  be  run  in 
by  means  of  a  chute,  or  rolled  down  over  planks.  The 
concrete  should  not  be  thrown  in  to  a  distance  of 
more  than  8  feet  in  depth.  After  the  concrete  is 
run  in,  ram  it  in  with  a  spade  all  around  the  edges 
of  the  mold,  to  make  sure  that  it  will  reach  all  points, 
and  then  tamp  each  course  in  until  the  water  stands 
on  top  of  the  concrete.  Fill  the  mold  to  within  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  of  the  line  where  the  engine 
frame  will  set,  leaving  this  space  for  the  final  grout- 


14  ERECTING  WORK 

ing  after  the  frame  is  leveled  and  bolted  in  place  on 
wedges. 

The  foundation  should  then  be  allowed  to  set  until 
its  surface  is  hard,  when  the  mold  may  be  taken  away 
and  the  setting  up  of  the  machinery  begun. 

GENERAL  REMARKS 

Sometimes  the  erecting  engineer  will  have  problems 
to  solve  far  different  from  those  cited  herewith.  If 
the  foundation  bolts  are  to  be  placed  in  solid  rock,  or 
an  old  foundation,  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  holes 
must  be  drilled  to  a  sufficient  depth  with  a  rock  drill. 
When  within  10  or  12  in.  of  the  required  depth  for  the 
bolt,  change  the  drill  so  that  one  lip  is  longer  than  the 
other  and  finish  drilling  with  it  that  way.  This  will 
make  the  hole  larger  at  the  bottom.  Make  the  founda- 
tion bolt  with  the  lower  end  split,  lower  the  bolt  with 
a  partly  entered  iron  wedge  and  drive  it  hard  on  the 
bottom,  when  the  wedge  will  be  entered  so  as  to  ex- 
pand the  end  of  the  bolt,  as  in  Fig.  8.  When  the  engine 
is  in  position  fill  the  hole  with  cement-and-sand  mortar. 

To  avoid  vibration  from  machinery,  the  foundation 
should  be  kept  clear  of  the  surrounding  concrete  floors 
by  a  narrow  space,  and  if  necessary  this  space  may  be 
filled  with  sawdust.  Sometimes  when  foundations  are 
set  on  a  rock  bottom,  on  which  the  building  founda- 
tions also  rest,  the  sound  and  vibration  of  the  ma- 
chinery is  telephoned  throughout  the  building  to  the 
annoyance  of  tenants.  This  can  be  avoided  by  first 
tamping  a  layer  of  sand  over  the  rock,  6  or  8  in.  deep, 
and  placing  the  foundation  over  that. 


FOUNDATIONS 


Where  brick  foundations  are  to  be  built,  they  should 
be  laid  first  on  a  bottom  of  concrete,  or  stone,  of  vary- 
ing thickness,  say  from  12  to  24  in.,  and  of  sufficient 
length  and  breadth  to  extend  a  few  inches  beyond  the 
bottom  edges  of  the  foundation  all  around.  The 
templet,  in  this  case,  can  be  set  on  a  scaffold  the  right 


i 


G6ncret<e  • 


FIG.  8 

hight  and  centered.  If  the  space  will  permit,  build 
the  scaffold  of  sufficient  length  and  breadth  between 
supports  so  that  the  masonry  can  be  built  up  inside 
of  them.  In  every  case,  build  the  scaffold  strong  and 
secure  it  well  to  prevent  possibility  of  moving. 

The  bricks  for  a  foundation  should  be  good,  hard 


16  ERECTING   WORK 

sewer  bricks,  laid  in  a  mortar  of  two  parts  of  sand  to 
one  of  cement.  Lay  the  bricks  close,  and  make  every 
fourth  course  a  header.  The  center  may  be  filled  in 
with  large  bats  well  grouted. 

In  finding  center  lines  to  set  templets  by,  it  is  always 
best  for  the  erecting  man  to  have  the  contractor, 
architect,  or  millwright  of  the  building  furnish  a  line 
to  go  by.  It  is  not  the  duty  of  the  erecting  engineer  to 
go  beyond  the  immediate  limits  of  the  engine  room 
to  establish  lines;  let  some  one  in  authority  furnish 
the  first  line  for  a  guide,  as  then  the  engineer  is  not 
responsible  for  the  position  of  the  machinery  when 
set  true  to  the  line  furnished. 

If  rust  joints  are  to  be  made,  aim  at  a  thickness  of 
three-eighths  of  an  inch  all  around  between  the  edge 
of  the  engine  frame  and  the  foundation;  an  inch  is  the 
very  outside  limit. 

In  allowing  masons  to  work  to  your  plans,  or  setting, 
it  will  not  do  to  give  them  leeway  in  the  matter  of 
working  dimensions.  While  it  may  answer  to  allow  a 
bolt  to  be  a  little  out  of  position  when  there  is  a  hole 
around  it  in  the  foundation,  which  allows  it  to  move 
an  inch  in  any  direction,  measure  to  sixty-fourths, 
or  to  thousandths,  if  possible,  in  locating  center  lines. 
You  won't  get  them  from  masons,  but  if  you  start  with 
quarters  you  will  often  be  from  two  to  four  inches  out 
all  around.  A  mason  may  tell  you  that  he  made 
foundations  before  you  were  born,  and  he  may  be 
speaking  truthfully,  but  even  he  cannot  tell  how  many 
of  the  dimensions  were  failures.  If  you  let  him  have 
his  way,  it  may  be  necessary  to  tear  down  part  of  the 


FOUNDATIONS  17 

foundation  to  relocate  some  of  the  bolts.  If  this  is 
done  it  sometimes  has  the  good  effect  of  having  him 
follow  your  instructions  closely,  next  time.  The  erect- 
ing man  is  his  company's  representative  on  the  ground 
and  has  to  fight  his  employer's  battles.  We  should 
begin  by  watching  the  mason  who  builds  the  founda- 
tion. 


II 

KNOTS    AND    HITCHES 

FIGURE  9,  made  by  two  endless  slings  and  used  as 
shown  in  Fig.  10,  is  a  reliable  basket  hitch  when  both 
slings  are  of  equal  length,  or  with  one  sling  long  enough 
to  take  in  one-half  of  the  cylinder's  diameter  and  the 
other  to  run  through  both  loops  of  the  smaller  and  have 
its  own  loops  catch  the  chain  hook. 

Some  people  hoist  the  shaft  endwise  by  using  a 
collar  or  lathe-dog  as  a  safety  stay;  others  use  the 
bitting-rolling  hitch  shown  in  Fig.  11,  but  in  one  con- 
servative concern  whose  screw  and  bolt  department, 
on  the  fifth  floor,  is  provided  with  an  independent  hoist 
chain,  they  use  the  rig  shown  in  Fig.  12.  The  bucket 
is  hoisted  above  the  floor  level  and  then  pulled  in  as 
the  hoistway  is  reversed  and  made  to  lower  away. 

It  is  a  very  common  practise,  in  the  absence  of  a 
ready-made  endless  sling,  to  tie  a  flat  knot  in  a  short 
length  of  rope  and  use  it  in  lieu  of  a  sling.  Be  careful 
to  avoid  a  "granny  knot,"  Fig.  13,  which  is  unsafe  and 
which  we  all  know  about;  but  there  is  another  fool 
trick  which  can  easily  be  played  with  this  knot.  As 
it  may  be  new  to  some  of  the  readers,  an  explanation 
of  it  may  be  made  here  by  the  following  experience. 
In  lowering  a  bed-plate,  and  as  it  was  going  down,  to 

18 


KNOTS   AND   HITCHES 


help  keep  it  clear  of  the  building,  the  man  in  charge 
took  hold  of  A,  Fig.  13  (you  might  take  B  for  a  change), 


FIG.  10 


and  gave  it  a  good -strong  pull,  and  down  came  the 
bed-plate  with  a  rush.    The  explanation  of  the  knot 


20  ERECTING   WORK 

letting  go  is  this:  —  By  pulling  at  A,  Fig.  14,  caused 
the  loop  to  double  back,  as  shown  in  Fig.  15,  and  then 
the  Weight  of  the  bed-plate  pulled  A  out  of  his  hand, 
through  the  doubled  loop,  and,  presto!  the  trick  was 
done.  In  making  a  flat  knot  with  chains,  a  piece  of 
pipe  or  wood  should  be  run  into  it,  as  shown  by  Fig.  13 
to  prevent  jamming. 

Figure  16  shows  a  good  and  safe  way,  known  as  a 
sheepshank,  of  shortening  a  long  rope.  It  is  self- 
evident  that  any  amount  and  any  length  of  loop  may 
be  used,  but  it  must  be  carefully  borne  in  mind  that  at 
least  a  6-in.  length  of  over-lap  loop  at  X  X  is  essential 
to  absolute  safety. 

The  next  is  made  without  passing  the  end,  and  pro- 
vides two  loops  to  which  a  tackle  block  can  be  hooked. 
Fig.  17  shows  the  start;  Fig.  18,  the  second  stage; 
Fig.  19  the  manner  of  rolling  two  loops  into  the  stand- 
ing portion  of  the  rope,  and  Fig.  20,  the  two  loops  X  X 
brought  vertically  down  (after  rolling)  and  ready  for 
service.  The  block  or  fall  must  be  hooked  into  both 
loops.  The  above  is  a  safe  and  reliable  hitch  that  can 
be  wiggled  in  at  any  point  in  a  rope,  and  besides  being 
perfectly  reliable,  it  is  easily  and  quickly  made  and 
unmade. 

Figure  21  is  an  old  and  well-known  friend  of  the 
rigger. 

Figure  22  is  a  simple  and  safe  way  to  take  a  tem- 
porary hold,  but  as  the  mere  shifting  of  the  weighted 
loop  will  suffice  to  loosen  the  whole  rig,  the  need  of 
keeping  meddlers  away  must  be  obvious. 

Figure  23  shows  how  in  using  a  chain  block  whose 


KNOTS   AND   HITCHES 


21 


FIG.  25         FIG.  26      ^PIG.  27  FIG.  28 


FIG.  20 


FIG.  31 


22  ERECTING  WORK 

hoisting  and  lowering  range  is  necessarily  confined  to 
the  limit  of  its  chain  length,  the  weight  may  be  raised 
or  lowered  to  any  distance.  Thus  in  Fig.  23  the  chain 
travel  is  only  10  ft.,  but  the  weight  has  to  be  raised 
20  ft.  We  lower  the  chain  and  hook  into  the  rope  at 
A,  hoist  the  10  ft.  and  make  the  free  rope's  end  B  fast 
to  any  convenient  projection  overhead  (if  necessary, 
even  to  the  chain  block  suspending  hook  C).  We  now 
unhook  and  lower  the  chain  again  for  its  new  pre- 
viously-prepared hold  lower  down,  as  at  D,  and  up  she 
goes,  the  20  ft.  or  any  other  old  distance.  We  em- 
phasize previously  prepared  hold  advisedly,  as,  if  not  so 
prepared,  it  will  be  found  impossible  to  wiggle  in  a  hold 
for  the  hook  in  the  tautened  rope.  Fig.  21  cannot  be 
used  for  second  holds,  and  positively  must  not  be  used 
for  a  starter,  or  first  hold,  because,  after  fastening  at 
C,  it  will  be  found  both  hard  and  dangerous  to  slip  the 
hook  out  of  it. 

Either  the  double-up,  non-slipping  loop,  Fig.  24,  or 
bowlines  should  be  used  all  along  the  line. 

Speaking  of  bowlines,  the  slack  line  X  may  go  either 
in  front  or  back  of  the  standing  rope  Y,  as  shown  in 
Figs.  25  and  26;  but  in  either  case  after  going  around 
Y,  it  must  be  passed  through  the  loop  Z  in  the  manner 
shown  at  Fig.  27.  Passing  it  through  as  shown  at 
Fig.  28  cuts  out  the  non-slipping  feature  and  reduces 
the  bowline  to  a  farce. 

A  broken  hammer  handle,  a  split  monkey-wrench 
handle,  etc.,  may  be  nicely  repaired  by  the  endless- 
wound  splice  Fig.  29.  The  make-up  is,  we  think,  pretty 
clear  as  shown,  and  it  is  evident  that  by  pulling  at  A 


KNOTS   AND   HITCHES  23 

the  loop  B  will  make  a  similar  loop  in  D  at  C,  and  con- 
tinued pull  will  draw  the  crossed  loops  out  of  sight. 
The  loop  ends  may  then  be  closely  cut  off. 

Figure  30  is  preferable  for  extra  neat  work,  in  that 
it  does  away  with  the  bulge  caused  by  the  crossed 
loops.  Until  the  loop  X  is  reached,  all  is  plain  sailing. 
The  rope  Y  must  then  be  held  steadily  in  its  place  on 
the  stick  Z  while  the  loop  is  swung  around  both  it  and 
the  stick,  as  shown  by  the  dotted  outline.  Only  at 
the  finish  (shown  in  Fig.  31)  should  Y  be  allowed  to 
move.  Then  it,  as  a  part  of  loop  L,  should  be  swung 
around  the  stick  as  shown  at  N.  Setting  the  coils 
close  and  drawing  up  at  M  completes  the  job. 

Always,  and  above  all,  in  using  ropes  do  not  abuse 
them.  Bagging,  burlap,  even  waste  or  paper,  if  the 
first  are  not  to  be  had,  should  always  be  interposed 
between  a  rope  and  all  hard,  angled,  even  if  not  sharp, 
edges. 

The  knot  shown  completed  in  Fig.  37  is  also  known 
as  "jury  mast  knot"  and  "bottle  hitch."  It  can  be 
used  in  place  of  a  "mast  iron"  at  the  top  of  a  derrick 
to  make  guys  fast  to. 

Although  at  first  glance  it  appears  to  be  complicated, 
it  is  very  easy  to  make.  To  practise  it,  take  a  piece 
of  stout  cord  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of 
each  hand  with  a  space  of  about  6  in.  between  the 
hands.  Then  twist  the  cord  right-banded  with  thumb 
and  forefinger  of  the  right  hand  only.  This  will 
throw  up  a  "bight"  like  Fig.  32  with  the  part  A  under 
B.  Grasp  the  loop  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger 
of  the  left  hand  at  the  point  where  the  two  parts  cross. 


ERECTING   WORK 


Then  move  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  right  hand 
along  the  cord  about  6  in.  and  throw  up  another 
"bight"  laying  it  on  top  of  the  first  one.  You  then 
have  Fig.  33.  Hold  these  two  "bights"  with  the  left 


FIG.  32 


FIG.  34 


FIG.  35 


thumb  and  forefinger,  measure  off  another  6  in.  and 
throw  the  last  "bight."  Place  it  on  top  of  the  last 
one  made  and  you  have  Fig.  34.  Take  the  part  E 


FIG.  36 


FIG.  37 


in  the  last  "bight"  at  Fig.  34  and  —  while  holding  the 
other  parts  in  place  —  pass  it  under  B,  over  C,  and 
under  A.  This  makes  Fig.  35.  Then  take  B,  Fig.  36 
and  pass  it  under  D  and  over  F.  The  result  is  Fig.  36. 


KNOTS  AND   HITCHES 


25 


Then  while  holding  E  in  the  left  and  B  in  the  right 
hand,  take  hold  of  X  with  the  teeth  and  pull  it.  The 
result  will  be  Fig.  37.  In  practise  the  part  O,  Fig.  37, 
goes  over  the  reduced  part  at  the  mast  or  derrick  head. 
The  forestay  or  guy  is  made  fast  to  X.  The  stays  to 
E  and  B.  Y  and  Z  form  the  back  stays.  Any  strain  on 
the  stays  tightens  up  0.  By  pulling  Y  and  Z  in 
opposite  directions  the  knot  comes  out. 


SLINGING  A  BARREL 
FIG.  38 


It  is  often  necessary  to  sling  a  barrel  containing 
castings  or  liquids.  While  with  both  heads  on  and 
bung  in  place  this  is  an  easy  matter;  with  one  head  out 
this  is  not  so  easy.  The  illustrations  i,  2,  and  3  in 
Fig.  38  show  how  this  can  be  easily  done. 


Ill 


HAULING     HEAVY     MACHINERY     THROUGH 
CITY  STREETS 

A  CITY  street  makes  a  good  roadway  for  moving 
machinery,  even  if  it  is  heavy  and  on  skids  and  rollers, 
and  three  thicknesses  of  2-in.  plank  are  enough  for  a 
track.  The  joints  in  the  layers  should  be  broken  if 
the  street  surface  is  at  all  uneven  and  things  are  ready 
to  move.  If  the  street  happens  to  be  an  old  one  with 
cobblestone  pavement  and  poor  material  beneath  to 
support  that  pavement,  of  course  things  will  have  to  be 
evened  up  with  blocking.  But  this  principle  holds 
everywhere:  one  block  across  another  and  short  spans 
for  heavy  loads. 

The  most  important  question  in  hauling  a  heavy 
piece  in  this  way,  weighing  sixty  tons  or  more,  is  to 
provide  the  hauling  force.  The  thing  could  be  shoved 
with  jacks  and  some  progress  made,  too,  or  even  with 
enough  chain  falls,  three  sets  of  three  ton  blocks,  for 
instance,  but  the  trouble  with  such  rigging  is  of  course 
the  number  of  shifts  that  must  be  made  and  the  time 
lost  in  making  them.  A  good  long  rope  falls  with  a 
pair  of  horses  on  the  leading  line  is  the  quickest  and 
easiest  way  of  getting  on.  If  the  ground  is  level,  a 
pair  of  good  truck  horses  will  haul  that  shaft  with 

26 


HAULING   HEAVY   MACHINERY  27 

a  one  and  one-quarter  in.  falls  through  a  pair  of  three 
sheave  blocks.  That  will  give  a  pulling  force  of  seven 
times  the  force  exerted  by  the  horses,  for,  of  course, 
the  team  should  pull  in  the  direction  of  the  onward 
movement  and  the  ropes'  end  should  be  made  fast  to 
the  load.  This  will  give  a  speed  of  movement  of  one- 
seventh  the  speed  of  the  team  and  will  be  amply  fast 
for  the  best  of  level  roads  and  a  large  gang  of  efficient 
men.  If  there  were  no  pauses,  which  of  course  there 
must  be,  and  many  of  them,  a  city  block  would  be 
passed  in  seven  or  eight  minutes.  One  great  objection 
to  going  too  fast  will  be  the  inability  to  stop  a  team  of 
horses  instantly.  They  like  to  go  two  or  three  steps 
after  the  time  to  stop,  and  this  will  mean  a  foot  or  so 
on  the  shaft. 

If  the  ground  is  uneven,  and  hills  and  hollows  lie  in 
the  path,  more  power  will  be  needed,  of  course,  and  a 
capstan  head  for  either  one  or  two  horses  is  most  con- 
venient. Motion  is  slower  then,  and  there  is  less 
danger.  The  man  hauling  in  the  slack  on  the  leading 
line,  as  the  rope  pays  itself  off,  can  check  the  onward 
motion  instantly  by  slacking  his  hold,  even  with  the 
drum  in  motion.  The  capstan  will  have  to  be  shifted 
just  as  often  as  is  the  head  block,  and  a  new  anchorage 
will  have  to  be  provided  each  time.  If  a  capstan  is  not 
available,  power  can  be  gained  quite  as  well  with  a  luff 
tackle;  that  is,  instead  of  hauling  directly  on  the  lead- 
ing line  of  the  main  falls,  hook  another  falls  onto  it 
and  pull  on  the  second  leading  line.  A  lighter  rope 
will  answer  for  the  second  falls,  for  the  whole  force  it 
exerts  goes  through  a  single  part  of  the  main  falls;  inch 


28 


ERECTING   WORK 


rope  or  even  three-quarter  inch  is  amply  large;  smaller 
rope  can  be  used,  but  this  rope  should  be  a  long  one, 
and  there  is  not  much  call  for  a  very  long,  small  rope 
on  other  parts  of  the  work.  A  set  of  half-inch  blocks 
is  convenient  for  small  short  lifts,  valve  gear  and  like 
pieces,  but  a  long  rope  is  very  much  in  the  way  at  such 
times. 

When  a  luff  is  used,  it  is  just  as  well  to  let  the  haul- 
ing line  of  the  main  fall  come  back  toward  the  load  and 
fasten  the  other  line  to  the  head  block.  This  will  cut 
off  one-seventh  of  the  pulling  force,  but  if  the  head 


FIG.  39 

block  of  the  luff  is  itself  fixed  to  the  load,  and  its  haul- 
ing line  lead  off  to  pull  in  the  direction  of  the  shaft 
motion,  that  seventh  will  be  recovered.  This  will 
require  an  extra  sheave  in  the  luff  blocks  to  equal  the 
pull,  were  everything  straightaway,  but  the  advantage 
comes  in  not  having  to  shift  so  many  hitches  so  often. 
There  will  be  one  block  that  can  always  remain  in  place 
of  this  extra  tackle.  It  will,  of  course,  depend  upon 
how  much  force  is  available,  how  much  the  load  is,  and 
how  many  men  are  upon  the  work.  This  will  be  made 
clearer  in  the  sketches.  Fig.  39  shows  the  straight- 


HAULING   HEAVY   MACHINERY 


29 


away  pull  with  a  pair  of  three  sheave  blocks,  and  with 
an  arrangement  giving  seven  times  the  force  to  move 
the  load  that  is  exerted  on  the  hauling  line.  This  is 
clearly  a  better  arrangement  than  Fig.  40  shows, 


FIG.   40 

where  the  force  multiplies  itself  six  times  only.  The 
difference  in  these  two  arrangements  is  so  apparent 
that  a  man  who  handles  machinery  for  a  living  would 
not  be  caught  using  Fig.  40.  But  it  has  been  used  by 
some  pretty  good  mechanics. 

The  simplest  and  most  powerful  arrangement  for  a 
luff  is  to  repeat  Fig.  39  upon  itself,  that  is,  let  the 


FIG.  41 


hauling  line  be  taken  as  the  load  and  the  new  fall  be 
hooked  to  it  as  if  it  alone  were  to  be  moved,  as  in  Fig. 
41.  Here  the  main  tackle  gives  a  multiplication  of 
seven,  and  its  hauling  line  furnishes  load  to  a  fall 


30  ERECTING   WORK 

which  multiplies  five  times;  so  that  the  force  urging  the 
load  on  is  thirty-five  times  the  hauling  force.  The 
sketch  shows  the  leading  line  of  the  main  falls  going 
by  the  main  anchorage.  Of  course  this  is  not  necessary 
nor  convenient.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  main 
leading  line  may  not  be  shortened  up  and  the  head 
block  of  the  luff  anchored  at  the  same  fixture  that  fur- 
nishes anchorage  for  the  main  fall.  Fig.  42  shows  an 


FIG.  42 

arrangement  of  the  two  falls  which  is  more  often  used, 
though  some  of  the  power  is  sacrificed.  Here  neither 
block  of  the  luff  tackle  is  stationary;  what  is  really  the 
head  block  being  fast  to  the  load  itself  while  the  other 
block  hooks  onto  the  leading  line  of  the  main  falls. 
The  force  urging  the  load  onward  here  is  twenty-eight 
times  the  hauling  force,  a  loss  of  20  per  cent,  of  the  most 
powerful  arrangement.  Fig.  43  shows  a  method  of 
main  fall  and  luff  with  a  multiplication  of  thirty-five 
and  with  the  head  block  of  the  luff  tackle  fast  to  the 
load.  Here,  however,  the  hauling  line  leads  back  and 
is  not  always  convenient.  This  arrangement  would 
be  an  ideal  one  were  a  hand  winch  to  be  used  and  the 


HAULING   HEAVY   MACHINERY 


31 


lower  winch  fixed  to  the  load  itself  and  pulling  away 
in  the  leading  part  of  the  secondary  fall. 

Any  one  of  these  methods  can  multiply  power 
enormously.  With  the  winch  as  just  mentioned  in 
connection  with  Fig.  43,  the  winch  enters  as  a  factor. 
An  ordinary  compound  hand  winch  will  multiply,  by 
itself  alone,  any  force  acting  upon  the  cranks,  about 


.HAULING  LINE 


FIG.  43 

thirty  times,  depending  upon  the  gearing,  of  course, 
some  being  less  and  some  more  powerful.  Here  then 
the  pulling  or  winding  force  furnished  by  the  men  with 
the  handles  is  multiplied  ten  hundred  and  fifty  times. 
If  the  shaft  were  to  be  lifted  bodily,  this  hitch  brings 
the  force  necessary  down  to  a  very  small  amount,  less 
than  one  hundred  and  forty  pounds,  in  fact,  and  is 
easily  available  with  a  few  men.  It  is  evident  that  to 
make  all  this  force  available,  something  more  than 
seven  parts  of  one  and  one-quarter  inch  rope  is  neces- 
sary. A  bran-new  inch  and  a  quarter  fall  with  seven 
hauling  parts  may  be  trusted  for  a  straight  pull  of  ten 
tons  straight  up  in  the  air  or  in  any  other  direction. 
But  the  rope  must  be  in  perfect  condition. 


32  ERECTING  WORK 

These  schemes  of  rigging  apply  to  the  multiplication 
of  power  only,  and  show  methods  of  reducing  the 
amount  of  force  needed  to  move  a  load.  There  is  no 
economy,  it  is  clear,  in  making  an  arrangement  that 
one  man  can  manage  with  one  hand  lightly  on  a  winch. 
Nor  yet  again  is  there  economy  in  having  a  man  haul 
on  a  rope  with  the  entire  strength  he  can  muster. 
Thirty  pounds  is  a  good  fair  pulling  force  for  a  man  to 
exert,  and  keep  it  up  long  enough  to  run  out  the 
length  of  a  hitch,  provided  he  has  his  load  placed 
advantageously;  and  he  will  have  a  reserve  even  at 
this,  that  will  help  over  a  temporary  increased  pull. 
Two  men  on  a  winch  will  do  more  than  twice  as  much 
as  one  man.  If  a  seventy-ton  shaft  were  to  be  lifted 
up,  something  more  than  seven  one  and  one-quarter- 
inch  falls,  each  one  through  three  sheave  blocks, 
would  be  used.  Though  they  could  lift  it,  were  each 
one  fully  loaded,  there  would  be  no  way  of  knowing 
when  each  one  had  its  share,  and  each  one  might  part 
separately  one  after  another.  More  parts  of  more 
powerful  rope  are  used  for  heavy  .lifts,  concerning 
which  more  will  be  said  later. 

There  may  be  some  difficulty  in  finding  anchorages 
along  a  roadway,  solid  enough  to  allow  of  a  head  block 
being  hitched  to  them.  If  six  tons  are  required  to 
move  the  load  along,  there  will  come  a  backward  pull 
of  six  tons  on  the  anchorage,  and  something  heavy 
must  be  found  for  the  purpose,  and  good  judgment 
used  in  hitching  to  it.  The  trunk  of  a  tree  will  stand 
a  lot  of  abuse.  An  i8-in.  trunk  will  stand  more  hori- 
zontal pull  than  can  be  brought  upon  it  in  such  work. 


HAULING  HEAVY  MACHINERY 


33 


Sometimes  it  is  possible  to  take  a  turn  about  part  of  an 
old  building.  In  one  window  and  out  another  with  a 
rope  or  chain  and  taking  in  a  good  solid  corner,  if  the 
walls  are  thick  and  firm,  will  answer  very  well.  Corners 
of  the  building  must  be  protected  with  pieces  of  plank 
and  tree-trunks  must  have  a  thickness  of  plank  all 
around  to  protect  their  bark  from  damage,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  44.  Lamp-posts  and  hydrants  usually  have  to  be 
avoided.  They  will  not  stand  much,  anyway,  and 


FIG.  44 

the  authorities  are  likely  to  pass  unpleasant  remarks 
besides.  They  have  been  known  to  help,  however. 
Telegraph  poles  are  good  and  can  be  used  for  a  good 
pull.  They  have  not  the  hold  upon  the  ground  that  a 
tree  has,  however,  and  are  rather  small  for  the  heaviest 
work.  But  sometimes  two  or  three  weak  things  can 
be  combined  to  make  one  solid  one.  It  is  always  pos- 
sible to  anchor  a  capstan  by  driving  iron  bars  into  the 
roadway.  Take,  for  instance,  a  bar  of  two  inch  round 
iron,  three  feet  long,  and  drawn  down  to  a  point  on 
one  end.  Such  bars  can  be  driven  into  a  roadway, 
with  blows  from  a  heavy  sledge,  for  a  distance  of 
30  in.  Four  or  more  such  bars  will  anchor  any  capstan 


34  ERECTING   WORK 

or  hand  winch,  and  if  the  pull  is  not  too  heavy,  will 
serve  for  anchorage  of  the  head  block  itself.  It  is  pos- 
sible, sometimes,  to  get  hold  of  a  coal  hole  in  the  side- 
walk and  tie  to  a  bar  across  the  inside  stones. 

There  is  one  way  always  possible  and  always  strong 
enough  to  resist  any  pull  that  can  be  brought  to  bear 
upon  it,  that  is:  locating  a  dead  man.  That  means 
simply  taking  a  good  stout  grip  on  the  earth.  The 
principle  is  that  a  lot  of  plank  and  blocking  sunk  deep 
in  the  solid  ground  are  good  for  a  tremendous  pull. 
There  is  a  good  deal  of  tenacity  in  the  ground  itself 
and  this  is  its  useful  property  that  makes  its  weight 
available. 

A  hole  dug  down  5  or  6  ft.  deep,  its  depth  de- 
pending upon  the  kind  of  soil,  6  ft.  long,  crosswise 
in  the  roadway  and  wide  enough  to  get  down  into, 
three  feet  is  ample,  furnishes  the  foundation.  The 
front  side  of  this  is  partially  covered  with  good  three- 
inch  plank  and  a  block  across  the  plank  gives  the 
something  to  pull  on.  A  narrow  and  sloping  trench 
should  be  dug  for  the  rope,  going  up  at  an  angle  no 
steeper  than  45  deg.  and  30  is  much  better,  and  the 
rope  provided  with  a  block  wherever  it  tends  to  cut 
down  into  a  corner  of  the  earth.  Such  a  device  is  the 
last  resort,  but  it  is  always  good.  Its  disadvantage  is 
the  amount  of  work  necessary  to  provide  it  and  the 
trouble  encountered  in  digging  such  a  hole  in  the 
street.  Fig.  45  shows  a  dead  man.  It  is  best  to 
locate  this  thing  where  it  can  be  used  more  than  once, 
and  for  more  than  one  purpose.  If  the  front  earth  is 
left  overhanging,  as  shown  in  Fig.  45,  it  may  be  used 


HAULING   HEAVY   MACHINERY 


35 


for  a  more  vertical  pull,  and  is  useful  where  a  hoist 
must  be  made  from  a  winch  and  an  anchorage  found 
for  snatch  blocks.  By  such  methods  and  appliances 
as  here  described,  it  is  possible  to  move  a  shaft  or  any 


FIG.    45 

other  heavy  piece  through  town  streets,  making  track 
or  blocking  foundations  where  needed.  And  inasmuch 
as  the  crank-shaft  is  not  usually  the  first  piece  needed 
in  getting  an  engine  in  place  on  its  foundation,  it  may 
well  be  left  standing  on  its  rollers,  without  the  entrance 
to  the  building,  while  the  balance  of  the  machine  is 
taken  from  the  cars. 


IV 

RUNWAYS  ON  AN   INCLINE 

RAISING  a  large  crank-shaft  on  blocking  and  lower- 
ing it  to  its  bearings  requires  a  considerable  degree  of 
engineering  skill.  Not  as  much  skill,  perhaps,  as  is 
required  in  designing  such  a  shaft,  not  as  much  re- 
sponsibility involved.  But  there  is  a  better  precedent 
established  for  a  large  shaft  design.  It  is  possible  to 
tell  almost  precisely  what  will  happen  to  a  24-in.  shaft, 
for  instance,  when  it  holds  up  50  tons  and  turns  it  over 
80  times  a  minute.  The  engineer  handling  the  shaft 
knows  what  he  has  done  before,  but  a  new  rigging  has 
to  be  devised  every  time,  for  no  two  jobs  are  alike  and 
the  material  at  hand  has  to  be  used  whether  or  not  it 
is  well  suited  to  the  purpose. 

Some  way  must  be  devised  of  raising  the  shaft  up 
and  into  the  engine  room.  This  may  be  done  with 
jacks  and  blocking,  but  inasmuch  as  all  the  material 
must  be  raised  to  the  engine  room  floor  level,  it  is  easier 
to  build  a  runway  for  the  first  piece  and  use  it  for  every 
other  piece.  That  means  it  must  be  strong  enough 
and  good  enough  to  furnish  passageway  for  the  shaft. 

More  care  is  needed  in  building  an  incline  to  be  used 
for  hauling  machinery  up  than  is  necessary  in  build- 
ing one  for  letting  it  down.  The  weight  itself  is  no 

36 


RUNWAYS   ON  AN  INCLINE  37 

greater,  but  there  is  a  vast  deal  more  pulling  and 
hauling  to  be  done.  In  coming  down  friction  is  no 
hindrance,  while  in  going  up  it  adds  to  the  load;  so 
unless  there  is  an  abundance  of  pulling  force  to  be  had 
conveniently,  a  good  long  run  should  be  built.  A  slope 
of  one  in  six  is  steep  enough  and  a  longer  one  is  better. 
This  angle  is  steeper  than  the  angle  of  friction.  A 
shaft  will  keep  moving  after  being  once  started  on  a 
well-built  runway  sloping  one  in  eight,  or  possibly  one 
in  ten  if  it  has  plenty  of  rollers.  It  will  not  start  of 
its  own  accord,  however,  on  a  slope  of  one  in  ten  from 
a  standstill;  it  takes  very  little  to  hold  a  shaft  still  on 
an  incline  sloping  one  in  eight,  that  is  to  prevent  it 
from  starting  of  its  own  accord  down  hill.  It  takes  no 
great  force  to  prevent  it  starting  itself  down  an  incline 
of  one  in  six;  but  it  takes  a  pretty  good  pull  to  start 
it  up  a  steep  slope,  and  as  a  rule  one  in  six  is  fully  the 
limit  of  slope  in  the  ordinary  case  and  with  ordinary 
tools  and  rigging.  If  there  is  room  it  will  pay  to  make 
the  runway  longer. 

For  a  long  and  high  run,  considerable  timber  will 
be  required  and  some  method  will  have  to  be  adopted 
that  will  use  only  what  is  necessary.  Cob  house 
blocking  will  answer  and  is  easily  built,  but  it  requires 
more  material  than  does  any  other  way. 

It  is  better  to  do  a  little  framing,  as  shown  in  Figs. 
46  and  47.  A  wood  column  10  in.  square  and  10  ft. 
high  will  stand  an  enormous  load,  full  as  much  as  a 
space  of  like  area  (10  in.  square)  will  stand  across  the 
grain  as  it  would  in  a  pile  of  blocking.  Such  a  column 
will  hold  up  30  tons  with  perfect  safety  and  will  stand 


ERECTING   WORK 


a  good  amount  of  abuse  in  the  way  of  rough  framing, 
so  that  if  bents  are  made,  as  shown  in  Fig.  47,  and  the 


FIG.   46 

main  risers  are  10  in.  square,  the  bents  will  need  to  be 
placed  no  closer  than  12  ft.  so  far  as  they  are  them- 
selves concerned,  though  of  course  for  this  long  span 
heavy  string  timber  will  have  to  be  used  on  top. 


FIG.  47 


The  framing  itself  is  not  difficult.  It  is  not  necessary, 
of  course,  to  make  a  tenon  and  mortise  joint,  nor  even 
need  the  pieces  be  halved  together;  ^but  something 


RUNWAYS   ON  AN   INCLINE 


39 


more  than  toe  nailing  is  necessary.  The  easiest  joint 
is  the  double  covering  strips  just  as  is  found  in  the  up- 
to-date  butt  joint  in  a  boiler,  only  plates  are  somewhat 
thicker.  Fig.  48  shows  the  method,  simply  two  pieces 


FIG.   48 

of  plank  spiked  to  each  of  the  two  members,  the  plank 
being  long  enough  to  get  a  good  grip  on  at  least  one 
piece. 

The  distance  between  uprights,  Fig.  47,  and  also 
the  length  of  the  cross  piece  should  be  determined  by 
the  width  between  the  skids  of  the  heaviest  piece,  that 
is  the  shaft,  and  the  thing  should  be  arranged  so  that 
these  uprights  will  come  about  under  the  skids. 

The  size  of  the  cross  pieces  will  depend  upon  the  load 
they  are  to  carry.  Ten  by  tens  reaching  across  a  span 
of  six  feet  and  held  down  well  with  a  good  load  at  each 
end  can  be  trusted  with  a  center  load  of  about  six  tons, 
but  it  will  be  difficult  to  make  any  great  load  come  upon 
those  cross  timbers  at  their  centers,  for  they  will  give 


OF   THE 

UNIVERSITY 


40  ERECTING  WORK 

more  than  the  columns  will,  so  the  middle  stringer  C, 
Fig.  47,  cannot  be  depended  upon  to  take  a  third  of 
the  load.  If  the  long  timbers  for  these  stringers  are 
rather  light  it  is  better  to  have  more  bents  and  so 
shorten  up  the  span,  rather  than  to  trust  too  much  to 
the  middle  timber.  For  12-in.  square  stringers  a  span 
of  six  or  seven  feet  is  in  good  proportion,  and  even 
then  a  middle  stringer  will  be  a  convenience.  It  is  not 
the  strength  of  the  structure  so  much  as  its  stiffness 
that  should  be  considered.  The  stiffer  it  is,  the  less  it 
gives  under  push  and  pull,  the  easier  will  things  slide 
up  properly. 

Each  bent  must  be  braced  diagonally  with  plank 
spiked  on  solidly,  as  shown  at  d  and  e,  Fig.  47.  These 
diagonal  planks  will  keep  the  thing  stiff  and  able  to 
resist  any  side  twist.  It  would  be  exceedingly  unstable 
without  them.  A  high  and  curving  trestle  would 
require  more  secure  side  bracing  than  here  shown. 
Further,  each  bent  must  be  braced  by  diagonal  plank 
to  each  of  its  neighbors,  as  shown  at  x  and  g,  Fig.  46. 
These  bind  the  whole  thing  together  and  add  to  the 
solidity  of  the  whole.  The  foundation  may  well  be 
two  thicknesses  of  3-in.  plank  or  their  equivalent 
resting  fairly  upon  the  solid  earth.  These  planks 
should  have  a  good  bearing  on  stiff  ground,  over  their 
whole  length,  as  nearly  as  may  be  for  the  whole  load  of 
the  column  is  concentrated  at  one  point.  Particular 
care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  there  is  at  least  a  good 
support  directly  under  the  point  where  the  center  of 
the  column  comes. 

If  the  incline  is  steep,  it  is  best  to  break  the  sharp 


RUNWAYS  ON  AN  INCLINE  41 

depression  at  the  entering  point  A,  Fig.  46.  The  tend- 
ency is  in  passing  over  any  change  in  slope  in  the  path 
of  a  heavy  piece  on  skids  to  concentrate  the  load  at 
one  or  two  points.  If  the  change  is  slight,  the  piece 
will  pass  all  right  with  a  little  care  in  arranging  rollers 
and  a  slight  extra  pull.  If  the  change  is  abrupt,  serious 
damage  may  be  done  even  so  far  as  breaking  the  skids. 
So  it  is  well  to  break  all  those  sharp  corners  and  a  few 
pieces  of  block  pared  down  to  an  easy  taper  will  correct 
any  such  hollow  as  that  shown  at  A,  Fig.  47. 

It  is  usually  somewhat  more  convenient  in  erecting  an 
engine  of  this  kind,  if  the  large  door  for  entering  ma- 
chinery is  at  the  end  of  the  building,  in  the  wall  parallel 
with  the  center  line  of  the  engine  itself  and  out  a  little 
way  in  front  of  the  crank-shaft,  so  that  a  person  stand- 
ing in  the  doorway  would  look  along  down  the  engine 
room  in  a  line  just  passing  the  outer  circumference  of 
the  row  of  fly-wheels,  if  there  are  several  engines. 
There  are  fewer  turns  to  be  made  in  getting  the  parts 
onto  the  foundation  when  this  is  the  case.  It  is  a 
common  thing  to  find,  however,  that  the  door  itself  is 
more  conveniently  placed  in  the  side  of  the  building. 

A  runway  in  front  of  the  engine  foundation  will 
have  to  be  built  strong  enough  to  hold  up  the  shaft. 
If  there  is  a  permanent  floor  already  laid,  it  may  be 
stiffened  up  with  shores  and  blocking.  It  will  have  to 
be  good  and  stiff,  however,  for  loads  will  be  concen- 
trated at  one  spot  by  the  jacks  in  raising  the  outfit  to 
its  necessary  level.  Plenty  of  room  must  be  left  in 
front  of  the  door  for  turning  the  shaft  about  square 
with  the  engine.  It  is  frequently  possible  to  avoid  a 


42  ERECTING   WORK 

sharp  corner  by  making  a  long  turn;  and  an  incline 
trestle  may  be  built  upon  a  curve,  increasing  its  length 
and  making  less  and  easier  work  both  in  the  raising 
and  the  turning.  But  this  is  true  only  of  long  turns. 
If  the  turn  is  so  short  that  much  jacking  is  necessary 
for  shifting  the  rollers,  it  is  better  to  concentrate  all 
the  turning  at  one  place  and  then  rig  up  and  make  a 
business  of  it.  Straight  runs  on  rollers  are  easily 
passed  in  good  time  and  a  long  turn  made  by  small  cuts 
in  setting  the  rolls  are  not  difficult,  but  a  general  jack- 
ing all  around  every  time  a  piece  moves  ahead  its  own 
length  takes  up  more  time  than  is  reasonable. 

In  the  case  at  hand  it  might  be  possible  to  build  the 
incline  neither  perpendicular  to,  nor  parallel  with,  the 
wall  having  the  entering  door,  but  on  a  long  winding 
slant  through  the  door  cornerwise,  if  it  is  wide  enough, 
and  lay  along  in  front  of  the  engine  without  any  sharp 
turns  whatever.  But  in  such  a  method  the  shaft  is 
never  moving  straight  ahead  and  every  roll  is  binding 
against  every  other  roll  in  its  effort  to  do  the  guiding. 
It  is  better  to  use  the  room  in  front  of  the  door  by  get- 
ting down  a  good  stiff  temporary  floor  and  arranging  to 
jack  the  shaft  around  in  that  one  spot.  The  sliding 
can  be  done  upon  the  rollers.  Wood  does  not  slide  as 
easily  on  wood  as  it  does  on  iron,  particularly  when 
the  load  is  heavy,  and  less  force  would  be  necessary  if 
the  rollers  were  taken  out  and  strips  of  iron  laid  on 
blocks  were  substituted.  The  objection  to  this  is  the 
difficulty  in  taking  rolls  out  and  putting  the  blocking 
in.  Usually  there  is  not  room  to  haul  a  long  roller  out 
straight. 


RUNWAYS    ON   AN   INCLINE  43 

One  jack  should  be  used  at  each  end,  on  opposite 
corners,  one  braced  against  the  foundation  or  some 
part  of  the  engine  frame,  while  the  other  goes  up  against 
the  wall  of  the  building,  and  the  ends  will  do  all  the 
moving,  the  center  standing  still. 

Whenever  a  jack  is  braced  up  against  the  wall  of  a 
building,  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  wall  itself 
does  not  yield.  Of  course  no  wall  will  stand  all  the 
load  that  can  be  brought  upon  it  sideways  with  a  jack. 
It  is  possible  to  stiffen  things  up  with  plank  and  block- 
ing so  that  a  large  area  will  be  taken  in.  Sometimes, 
it  is  well  to  give  the  jack  a  small  rising  slant  so  that  it 
will  have  a  slight  lifting  tendency  as  it  shoves  the  shaft 
around.  This  may  distribute  the  load  better.  Rollers 
should  be  laid  out  so  that  the  shaft  may  come  about 
on  them,  the  last  rolls  being  laid  square  with  the  new 
direction  which  the  shaft  is  to  take.  The  rollers  will 
have  to  be  rearranged  after  the  shaft  is  wholly  turned; 
but  this  is  done  easily  with  the  jack  and  sledge. 


WORK  FOR  A  GIN  POLE 

THERE  are  always  four  or  five  wagon-loads  of  stuff 
belonging  to  an  engine  after  the  large  pieces  have  been 
taken  from  the  cars.  Connecting-rods,  cross-heads 
and  pistons,  valves  and  valve-gear,  the  governor  and 
its  connections,  all  in  boxes,  or  secured  to  plank  and 
skids;  the  piping  between  cylinders  with  gate-valves 
for  same;  the  air-pump  and  its  fittings  if  the  engine  is 
to  have  a  condenser,  all  go  to  swell  the  total.  And 
that  loose  stuff  takes  up  a  lot  of  room,  too.  Most  of 
it  must  be  stowed  away  under  cover,  for  it  is  not  best 
to  leave  finished  and  polished  stuff  out  of  doors  where 
it  can  be  injured,  and  all  that  can  be  taken  care  of  is 
put  around  the  engine  room.  All  this  material  added 
to  the  blocking  and  rigging  from  the  heavy  pieces, 
blocking  from  the  shafts,  for  instance,  fills  the  engine 
room  pretty  full,  and  some  care  and  management  will 
be  called  for  in  placing  the  parts  so  that  those  needed 
first  will  not  be  at  the  bottom  of  the  heap  and  the  whole 
outfit  have  to  be  dug  over  three  or  four  times.  The 
eight  valves  may  be  safely  kept  in  their  boxes  and 
placed  at  the  bottom,  followed  by  valve-gear  and 
running-gear.  Piping  and  condenser  rigging  should 
be  kept  separate,  for  that  will  be  needed  immediately 

44 


WORK  FOR  A   GIN  POLE  45 

after  the  machine  is  lined  up  in  order  to  blow  out 
cylinders  and  ports.  Fly-wheel  bolts  should  be  acces- 
sible, for  they  will  be  needed  as  soon  as  the  shaft  is  in 
place.  The  governor  or  governors,  if  there  be  two, 
will  not  be  needed  till  toward  the  last  end.  But  it 
may  be  advisable  to  have  those  where  they  can  be 
hauled  out.  The  governors  have  a  property  that  no 
other  part  does.  An  engine  appears  pretty  well  along 
in  its  process  of  erection  when  the  governor  is  up.  It 
looks  decidedly  bare  when  it  is  without  its  governors. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  bolt  on  such  a  piece  the  day  after 
the  lining  up  is  over.  It  makes  a  profound  impression 
upon  the  audience,  and  will  take  the  curse  off  of  three 
or  four  bad  days  —  days  when  the  public  believes  that 
things  have  gone  slowly,  and  that  the  man  setting  the 
job  up  doesn't  know  much  any  way. 

There  is  little  in  the  way  of  lifting  that  cannot  be 
done  with  jacks;  but  the  slide  section  of  the  engine  is 
about  the  worst  piece  to  handle.  It  is  not  very 
heavy,  but  there  is  nothing  to  take  hold  of  with  a 
jack,  and  even  after  it  is  up  high  enough  it  must  be 
slid  ahead,  square  and  level,  in  order  to  enter  the 
counterbore  made  for  it  in  the  frame.  It  is  a  difficult 
matter  to  slide  the  thing  ahead  on  rollers  and 
blocking. 

The  slide  section  of  the  engine  of  the  size  here  written 
of —  1 200  horse-power  —  can  best  be  handled  with  a 
stout  gin  pole.  There  are  engines  having  slides  cast 
with  a  foundation  bearing  all  over  the  whole  bottom 
surface.  Of  course,  such  a  piece  can  be  slid  up  and 
brought  in  line  with  wedges  very  easily.  The  section 


46  ERECTING  WORK 

here  described  is  one  made  by  most  of  the  builders 
now,  having  no  foundation  support  between  cylinder 
and  frame.  Fig.  49  shows  a  side  view  of  such  a  slide 
and  end  view  in  Fig.  50. 


FIG.  49 

The  slide  should  be  laid  along  the  foundation  roughly 
in  the  general  line  it  is  to  take  when  bolted  in  place  on 
its  skids  and  rollers.  Then  the  gin  pole  is  to  be  stood 
up  over  it  and  the  fall  made  ready  to  hoist.  A  iox  10 
pole,  1 6  ft.  long,  will  answer  here.  In  selecting  a 
pole  for  hoisting  material  of  this  kind  it  is  well  to  pick 
out  a  good  long  stick  once  for  all  and  use  it  for  nothing 


WORK  FOR  A   GIN   POLE 


47 


else.  The  corners  of  the  bottom  end  should  be  rounded 
up,  so  that  at  whatever  angle  the  pole  may  stand  the 
pressure  will  come  in  part  way  toward  the  center. 
Then  the  head  block  may  be  lashed  securely  to  the 
top;  also  the  main  guy  blocks.  This  work  once  done 
will  save  some  time,  for  it  need  not  be  disturbed.  The 


FIG.   50 

head  block  for  the  hoist  should  be  at  least  three  sheaves 
for  iHn.  rope.  This  will  handle  a  load  of  six  tons 
with  a  good  new  rope,  even  if  there  are  but  two  sheaves 
in  the  bottom  block. 

For  greater  loads  more  rigging  can  be  used,  but  it 


48  ERECTING  WORK 

may  be  of  the  same  kind,  making  no  change  except 
adding  a  greater  quantity.  Supposing  the  main  hoist- 
ing blocks  to  be  a  three  sheave  at  the  top  and  a  two 
sheave  at  the  bottom;  this  will  give  five  hoisting  ropes, 
and  with  a  6-ton  load  only  2400  Ibs.  can  come  on 
one  rope.  An  inch  and  a  quarter  line  will  hold  that 
load,  even  after  it  has  seen  some  wear,  though  no  rope 
can  be  trusted  with  a  load  after  it  has  seen  abuse. 

With  a  snatch  block  lashed  to  the  load  the  rope's 
end  may  be  led  through  and  back  to  the  head  of  the 
gin  pole,  increasing  the  safe  load  to  seven  tons  and 
over.  And  another  snatch  block  may  be  lashed  to  the 
top  of  the  pole,  which  will  allow  the  line  to  be  brought 
back  and  made  fast  to  the  load.  These  two  extra 
lines  increase  the  original  safe  load  40  per  cent.  Of 
course,  this  might  be  carried  on,  adding  snatch  block 
after  snatch  block,  and  adding  one  useful  rope  for  each 
snatch  block.  But  it  is  better  to  add  another  set  of 
blocks  than  to  go  too  far  in  this  direction.  In  fact,  any- 
thing more  than  one  added  block  at  the  bottom  and 
one  more  at  the  top  is  unusual. 

It  is  possible  to  cover  a  somewhat  limited  area  with 
a  gin  pole  16  ft.  long;  that  is,  its  head  may  be  moved 
about,  carrying  the  load  with  it,  while  the  foot  is 
stationary.  And  it  does  not  take  any  great  force  to 
move  sideways,  provided  the  whole  load  is  not  upon 
the  particular  guy  fall,  which  must  be  hauled  in.  It 
is  more  difficult  to  move  a  gin  pole  loaded,  back  and 
forth,  for  then  the  load  has  to  be  lifted. 

With  a  heavy  load  the  top  of  a  i6-ft.  pole  may  be 
moved  to  cover  an  area  about  five  feet  square,  pro- 


WORK  FOR  A  GIN  POLE  49 

vided  the  casting  itself  does  not  take  up  so  much  room 
that  the  proper  angle  cannot  be  assumed  by  the  pole. 
A  movement  of  five  feet  does  not  make  a  very  good 
traveling  crane,  but  it  is  so  much  better  than  nothing 
that  it  is  of  accepted  value.  Care  should  be  taken  in 
arranging  guy  falls  so  that  no  overload  will  come  there. 
There  is  frequently  more  stress  thrown  upon  these  falls 
collectively  than  the  hoisting  fall  has  to  stand  itself; 
and  this  stress  is  the  greater  as  the  slope  of  the  pole 
increases,  starting  from  a  vertical  line,  and  also  as  the 


FIG.  51 

guys  themselves  are  made  shorter  and  more  nearly 
approach  a  vertical.  So  long  guys,  as  nearly  horizon- 
tal as  may  be,  and  a  vertical  pole  place  the  least  stress 
on  all  parts.  About  30  deg.  from  a  vertical  is  the 
usual  limit  of  pole  angle  for  a  heavy  load,  and  there 
should  be  three  guys  led  back,  one  at  the  center  of 
the  load  and  the  other  two  stretched  out,  including 
an  angle  of  about  90  deg.  in  all.  Fig.  51  shows  their 
angular  relations,  which  is  a  plan  view  in  diagram. 
The  load  tends  to  pull  the  pole  over  in  the  direction  L. 


50  ERECTING   WORK 

The  guy  A  would  itself  prevent  this,  and  if  it  were 
strong  enough  could  hold  the  pole  upright.  But  the 
pole  would,  of  course,  be  very  unstable  and  could  not 
be  trusted  for  an  instant.  So  the  additional  guys  B 
and  C  are  led  off  to  prevent  the  outfit  from  falling  side- 
ways. Also,  it  is  evident  that  by  hauling  in  on  line  C 
while  slacking  line  B  and  holding  line  A  fast,  all  at  the 
same  time,  the  pole  and  its  load  must  go  over  toward  C. 
Also,  by  taking  in  on  all  three  lines,  A,  B,  and  C,  at 
the  same  time  must  pull  the  load  over  toward  A,  while 
slacking  off  all  three  together,  the  load  falls  and  moves 
in  the  direction  L.  It  is  evident  that  in  moving 
toward  A  the  load  is  raised,  and  that  all  three  falls 
should  be  hauled  in  at  the  same  time,  for  if  A  alone 
were  taken  in  it  would  take  the  whole  of  the  guy  load, 
and  in  addition  to  becoming  unstable  might  part,  due 
to  too  great  a  load.  The  two  guys  B  and  C  together 
hold  about  as  much  as  guy  A  does  alone. 

Sometimes  the  snatch  block  for  leading  the  hauling 
rope  over  toward  the  hoisting  drum  is  lashed  to  the 
foot  of  the  gin  pole.  This  is  allowable,  provided  this 
foot  is  securely  held.  It  gives  a  pull  on  the  foot  of  the 
pole  nearly  equal  to  the  pull  on  the  rope,  and  the  foot 
must  have  anchorage  equal  to  this  added  load.  It  is 
usually  better  to  lash  the  snatch  block  to  some  other 
fixture  —  a  part  of  the  engine,  or  a  foundation  bolt 
for  instance. 

Making  a  hitch  of  lashing  for  the  hook  in  the  lower 
block  on  a  piece,  such  as  shown  in  Fig.  49,  is  not  dif- 
ficult, and  a  number  of  good  ones  may  be  devised. 
Whatever  is  adopted  it  should  be  made  so  that  the 


WORK   FOR  A   GIN   POLE  51 

hook  may  be  shifted  a  little  in  order  to  bring  the  piece 
to  balance  approximately  level1.  The  easiest  way  is  to 
take  three  or  four  turns  of  inch  or  inch  and  a  quarter 
rope  at  each  end,  as  shown  at  A  and  B,  Fig.  49,  bind- 
ing four  strands  or  more  of  ij-in.  rope,  pulled  up 
rather  tight,  into  which  the  hook  is  fastened. 

The  hand  winch  will  pull  up  this  load  easily.  As  it 
comes  up  it  will  be  easy  to  see  whether  it  is  balanced 
properly,  and  if  not  it  must  be  lowered  of?  and  the  hooks 
slipped  along  a  little.  It  is  possible,  with  a  piece 
nicely  hung,  to  bring  it  up  and  swing  it  up  to  its  place 
square  and  level,  changing  the  guys,  B,  C,  and  A,  to 
bring  this  about.  Then  a  screw-jack  placed  at  the 
back  end  will  allow  the  hitch  to  be  removed  after 
bolting  up. 


VI 

RIGGING   FOR  THE  RECEIVER 

THE  section  of  a  fly-wheel  for  a  1200  horse- 
power engine  may  weigh  five  or  six  tons.  The  rim 
itself  is  nearly  square  in  cross-section,  and  an  arm 
is  cast  right  with  the  section  coming  out  radially  from 
the  center  of  its  arc.  So  there  are  as  many  sections 
as  there  are  arms. 

A  fly-wheel  section  looks  to  be  an  awkward  piece  to 
handle.  It  cannot  be  skidded  very  well  and  there  is 
not  much  surface  for  a  roller.  But  they  can  be  handled 
and  upon  rollers  without  skids.  Most  of  the  weight  is 
in  the  rim.  Probably  there  is  less  than  a  ton  and  a 
half  in  the  arm  itself.  Those  arms  are  frequently 
cored  out  for  a  portion  of  their  length.  A  solid  arm 
must,  of  course,  weigh  more.  So  if  rollers  are  placed 
crosswise  to  the  length  of  the  rim,  they  take  about 
four-fifths  of  the  weight  and  the  hub  end  of  the  arm 
weighing  less  than  a  ton  can  be  pinched  around  with  a 
crowbar.  Fig.  52  shows  the  method  of  handling  these 
pieces.  The  piece  is  guided  with  a  crow-bar  at  D 
sometimes  held  back  and  sometimes  pried  ahead,  for 
it  is  possible  to  so  place  the  hitch  that  the  hub  end  of 
the  arm  will  be  hauled  around  instead  of  rolling  the 
rim  end.  The  section  can  be  rolled  down  the  stringers 
52 


RIGGING   FOR  THE   RECEIVER 


53 


to  the  wagon  and  loaded  on  sideways,  that  is  at  the 
side  of  the  wagon.  It  is  possible,  of  course,  to  load  it 
at  the  end  of  the  wagon,  but  in  that  case  the  end  of  the 
arm  must  be  lifted  over  the  top  of  the  hind  wheel,  and 
there  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  loading  in  this  way 
for  one  piece  will  make  a  load  for  a  good  team  of 
horses. 

nA 


PIG.   52 

Such  a  piece  should  not  be  left  on  the  car,  flat,  with 
nothing  under  the  rim  to  allow  of  entering  the  toe  of  a 
jack.  When  a  section  does  lie  so,  it  is  best  to  begin 
to  raise  the  arm  at  its  center  end.  This  will  open  up  a 
space  all  over  the  rim  except  at  a  single  point  on  the 
outer  edge  as  at  A,  Fig.  52.  Then  as  thick  a  piece  of 
blocking  as  can  be  gotten  under  should  be  placed  at 
point  B,  and  the  arm  lowered  to  the  floor  again.  This 
will  tip  up  one  end  of  the  rim,  as  C  about  twice  the 
thickness  of  the  block  at  B.  Then  a  stone  jack  can 
enter  its  toe  at  C,  and  the  section  can  be  raised  very 
easily  all  over  and  with  only  one  jack. 

It  is  seldom  necessary  to  go  from  one  end  to  the 


54 


ERECTING   WORK 


other  of  a  heavy  piece  with  a  jack  when  only  one  jack 
is  to  be  had.  It  is  always  possible  with  any  fairly 
regular  shaped  piece  to  go  up  with  both  ends  and  keep 
the  jack  continually  at  one  end. 

For  instance,  suppose  the  load  to  be  represented  by 
Fig.  53.     The  center  of  weight  or  the  center  of  gravity 


FIG.  53 

goes  up  when  one  end  is  raised  and  the  other  stands 
still.  Then  if  a  block  is  placed  at  A,  a  little  past  the 
center,  the  opposite  end,  B,  must  come  up  when  the 
jack  is  lowered  off,  away  down  to  its  limit.  Now  a 
block  as  thick  as  possible  should  be  placed  at  B,  Fig.  53, 
and  the  jack  again  made  to  raise  end  C.  Now  a  thicker 
block  can  be  placed  at  A,  the  jack  lowered  and  the 
opening  at  B  filled  again.  This  method  saves  carry- 
ing the  jack  back  and  forth  and  is  very  rapid  even 
for  pieces  of  considerable  size;  for  when  two  jacks  are 
used,  only  one  can  be*moving  at  a  time. 

The  receiver  of  a  1200  horse-power  engine  is  usually 
an  awkward  and  ungainly  affair,  at  least  so  far  as 
handling  it  is  concerned.  It  may  weigh  about  three 
or  three  and  one-half  tons,  so  that  no  great  force  is 
needed  to  move  it;  and  if  it  lies  on  skids  with  a  small 
cradle  cross-piece  at  each  end  it  will  slide  along  all 


RIGGING   FOR   THE   RECEIVER 


55 


right  when  on  rollers.  It  is  handled  just  as  a  cylinder 
is  handled  and  hauled  over  to  the  engine  room  on  a 
truck. 

There  is  usually  a  place  for  the  receiver  of  a  large 
engine  and  if  that  place  is  under  the  floor,  it  is  well  to 
drop  it  down  between  the  foundations,  bolt  its  legs  on 
once  for  all  and  leave  it  roughly  in  its  proper  position, 
out  of  the  way  before  its  passage  is  blocked  by  the 
shaft,  or  by  any  other  part  and  ready  to  be  piped  up. 

If  a  large  receiver  is  to  be  stood  up  on  end  and 
lowered  down  beneath  the  floor,  something  more  than 
jacks  will  be  needed.  While  it  is  possible  to  do  any- 
thing in  the  way  of  lifting  weights  with  jacks  and 
blocking,  the  process  is  exceedingly  slow  for  long  lifts. 

An  engine  erector  is  entitled  to  the  hope  that  there 
is  something  in  the  roof  or  ceiling  of  his  engine  room 
strong  enough  to  pull  on,  say  with  moderate  loads; 
a  roof  truss  that  can  be  trusted  safely  with  a  ton  or 
more,  or  some  main  timber  within  easy  reach.  If  the 
roof  trusses  will  hold  a  ton  at  each  of  two  of  their  joints, 
it  is  easy  to  rig  up  overhead  work  that  will  lift  four 
tons;  for  two  timbers  can  be  placed,  reaching  from  the 
joints  of  one  truss  to  the  joints  of  the  next,  and  the 
blocks  slung  from  these  timbers.  Sometimes  there  are 
no  trusses,  however,  and  the  ceiling  is  as  smooth  as 
can  be;  then  if  there  is  no  overhead  rigging,  something 
must  be  done  to  make  some. 

It  is  always  possible  to  provide  a  gin  pole  out  of  the 
lumber  at  hand.  A  ten  by  ten  square  timber,  16  ft. 
long,  can  be  trusted  safely  with  fifteen  tons,  even 
when  swung  off  at  an  angle  and  held  with  rope  falls 


56  ERECTING   WORK 

for  guys.  It  would  very  likely  hold  more  than  this; 
but  it  is  unusual  to  trust  such  a  load,  or  even  ten 
tons  to  the  rigging  that  can  be  hung  from  a  single 
stick. 

In  the  case  of  this  receiver  the  gin  poles  need  not  be 
1 6  ft.  long;  10  or  12  ft.  is  plenty  and  it  will  be  most 
convenient  to  use  two  poles,  one  for  each  end.  Sticks 
eight  inches  square  are  large  enough,  or  even  six  inches 
if  the  timber  is  good  and  sound.  The  whole  load  will 
be  thrown  onto  one  pole,  however,  before  the  receiver 
is  in  place  and  allowance  should,  of  course,  be  made 
for  this.  Also,  the  pole  will  not  bear  as  much  weight 
when  it  is  swung  off  at  an  angle  and  held  by  guy  lines 
as  it  would  were  it  straight  and  held  stiff  under  a  mill 
floor,  for  instance. 

The  receiver  may  be  run  in  between  the  two  founda- 
tions, timber  being  strung  across  from  one  foundation 
to  the  other  and  plank  laid  down  to  furnish  a  tem- 
porary runway.  It  will  appear,  then,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  54  and  in  Fig.  55,  the  first  an  end  view  and  the 
second  a  side  view  of  the  receiver  and  its  rigging. 

*The  foot  of  the  pole  should  come  against  a  block,  B, 
Fig.  54,  to  prevent  its  slipping  in  that  direction.  If  the 
lift  is  not  to  be  a  straight  one,  and  frequently  it  is  not, 
the  foot  of  the  poles  should  be  securely  lashed  to  some 
solid  fixture.  Also  guy  lines  should  be  led  off,  at  least 
two,  and  if  much  movement  sideways  is  required 
three  will  be  needed.  An  inch  fall  makes  the  most 
convenient  guy,  for  it  can  be  taken  up  or  slacked  off 
most  easily. 

One  great  advantage  of  a  gin  pole  over  any  sort  of 


RIGGING   FOR   THE   RECEIVER 


57 


FIG.  54 


overhead  rigging  is  that  it  can  be  moved  through  a 
considerable  arc,  carrying  load  with  it,  by  slacking  or 
by  hauling  in  the  guy  lines;  and,  of  course,  a  rope  fall 
is  very  convenient  for  such  work. 


55 


The  two  pair  of  falls  for  the  hoist  here  may  be  one 
and  one-quarter  inch  rope  through  pair£  of  three  and 


58  ERECTING  WORK 

two  sheave  blocks,  or  even  one  inch  rope  will  answer 
through  blocks  of  the  same  size  if  the  rope  is  new. 

The  hitch  on  the  receiver  will  have  to  be  made  with 
some  care,  particularly  the  top  end.  The  whole  thing 
is  to  end  up  while  being  supported  by  this  hitch  and 
provision  must  be  made  for  the  slipping  of  the  hook  in 


FIG.   56 

the  bite.  The  easiest  way  to  do  this  will  be  to  use  a 
sling  of  one  and  one-half  inch  rope,  and  lash  the  sling 
to  the  top  end,  as  shown  at  A,  Fig  55,  with  a  number 
of  turns  of  one  and  one-quarter  inch  rope,  say  five 
turns.  This  lashing  must  be  wound  as  tight  as  can  be 


RIGGING   FOR   THE   RECEIVER 


59 


made  by  hand,  and  brought  up  close  under  the  flange 
for  the  top  head.  This  flange  is  what  holds  the  hitch 
in  place,  of  course.  At  least  one  round  turn  should 
be  made  by  the  sling  about  the  lashing  at  top  and 
bottom  to  prevent  the  slipping  sideways.  This  is 
made  apparent  in  Fig.  56,  which  shows  the  receiver 
dropped  down  to  its  landing.  The  sling  need  be 
nothing  more  than  a  piece  of  one  and  one-half  in.  rope 
made  into  a  sling  by  tying  a  square  knot  for  joining 
the  two  ends  after  the  hitch  is  made.  The  hitch  at 
the  bottom  end  is  nothing  but  a  piece  of  inch  and  a 
half  rope  wound  four  times  around  the  receiver  with 
two  of  the  bites  passed  up  through  the  hook.  The  two' 
turns  about  the  barrel  that  do  not  pass  through  the 
hook  keep  the  whole  hitch  tight  and  in  place.  This  is 
one  of  the  main  principles  of  using  rope  in  rigging. 
Another  principle  is  that  of  using  many  turns  where 
a  lashing  must  be  made  tight  with  the  two  ends  tied 
together  after  the  turns  have  been  made  in  a  knot  of 
some  kind.  There  must  be  a  little  slack  at  the  knot 
when  the  bends  come.  If  there  were  but  one  turn,  all 
this  slack  must  go  into  that  one  and  however  tight 
the  rope  was  pulled  at  first,  the  result  must  be  loose. 
If  six  or  eight  turns  be  taken  instead  of  one,  that  slack 
divides  itself  into  six  or  eight  parts  and  the  whole 
hitch  will  be  pretty  tight. 

Now  something  will  have  to  be  provided  for  hauling 
the  lines  of  the  main  hoists.  This  would  not  be  neces- 
sary were  chain  falls  used,  for  two  men  can  lift  tons 
with  chain  blocks.  But  one  disadvantage  of  the  chain 
fall  is  its  limited  amount  of  motion.  If  the  chain  is 


6o 


ERECTING   WORK 


made  long  enough  for  a  long  hoist,  the  spare  chain  is 
much  in  the  way  on  short  hoists.  A  hand  winch  is  the 
machine  for  this  work,  provided  there  is  no  steam 
winch  to  be  had  conveniently. 

There  is  but  one  capstan  drum  on  a  hand  winch,  or 
but  one  drum  of  any  kind,  and  as  this  receiver  must  be 
raised  and  held  up  at  each  end  in  order  to  clear  away 
the  blocking,  one  of  the  ends  must  be  raised  at  a  time 
and  held  there  while  the  other  end  uses  the  winch. 
It  is  best  to  begin  with  the  bottom  end,  as  this  is  lighter 
and  can  be  easily  slacked  of?  from  some  stationary 


anchorage.  There  will  be  required  a  pull  of  about 
eight  hundred  pounds  to  raise  the  one  end,  and  as  this 
is  only  a  short  lift,  not  over  four  inches  to  clear  block- 
ing, it  could  be  done  with  a  luff.  But  the  winch  is  all 
there  and  ready,  and  is  easily  used.  The  bite  only  of 
the  hauling  part  of  the  fall  need  be  passed  around  the 
drum  for  these  small  short  lifts.  There  is,  of  course, 
an  extra  part  of  the  rope  which  is  somewhat  in  the 
way,  but  this  saves  handling  the  long  leading  line  over 
so  many  times.  The  drum  will  look  as  in  Fig.  57,  and 


RIGGING   FOR  THE   RECEIVER  61 

one  man  can  haul  in  on  the  slack  line,  A,  without  any 
trouble,  keeping  the  loose  rope  out  of  the  gears  of  the 
winch  beside. 

When  the  bottom  end  of  the  receiver  is  up  four  or 
five  inches,  enough  to  clear  blocking  and  a  little  more 
to  allow  for  what  will  be  lost  in  making  fast  twice, 
some  way  must  be  devised  for  getting  the  hauling  part 
of  the  fall  away  from  the  winch  and  holding  it  tight 
all  the  time  in  order  not  to  let  the  load  back  and  still 
have  it  possible  to  pay  out  one  hundred  feet  or  so  of 
line  in  lowering  off.  The  first  move  will  be  to  seize 
two  of  the  ropes  on  the  fall  with  good  stout  twine  - 
marline  is  excellent  for  this  —  but  a  strand  of  old  rope 
will  answer.  Every  rope  in  a  fall  moves  in  reference  to 
every  other  rope  when  the  fall  itself  is  hauled  in  or  let 
out ;  so  if  this  relative  motion  of  the  ropes  is  prevented 
from  taking  place,  the  fall  is  held  fast  and  the  load 
with  it.  For  this  purpose  two  ropes  should  be  chosen 
whose  relative  motion  is  great;  the  greater  the  better, 
for  less  stress  is  put  upon  the  binding  then.  The  two 
ropes  which  have  the  greatest  relative  motion  are,  of 
course,  the  hauling  part,  and  the  same  rope  after  it 
passes  once  over  the  head  block,  numbered  +  5  and 

-  5  in  Fig.  58.     In  a  set  of  3-2  blocks  as  there  shown, 
the  relative  motion  is  ten  times  the  movement  of  the 
load  and  so  only  one-tenth  of  the  load  on  the  block 
could  come  on  this  binding.     But  it  is  not  usually  con- 
venient to  get  hold  of  the  hauling  line  and  bind  it  to 
one  of  the  other  lines. 

The  next  best  pair  of  ropes  are  numbered  +  5  and 

-  3,  and  here  the  load  divides  itself  by  eight  before  it 


62 


ERECTING   WORK 


comes  to  the  binding,  and  as  these  two  can  be  gotten  at 
readily  the  fall  in  side  view  will  appear  as  shown  in 
Fig.  59.  Of  course,  any  pair  of  ropes  might  then  be 
bound  together,  even  two  on  the  same  side  of  the 


i-s 


-f3 


fl 


FIG.   58 

sheaves,  as  +  i  and  +  3.  But  one-half  of  the  total 
load  would  come  on  the  binding  then,  tending  to  make 
it  slip;  and  when  the  leading  line  was  slacked  there 
would  be  only  two  ropes  holding  the  load.  For  bind- 
ing in  this  way,  always  select  a  pair  of  ropes  nearest 
the  hauling  part  and  two  running  over  the  same  sheave 
in  the  head  block,  or  tail  block. 

The  relative  values  of  the  ropes  and  their  relative  mo- 
tion is  shown  in  Fig.  58,  where  the  load  is  supposed  to 
go  up  one  part.  The  motion  of  the  other  ropes  is  shown 
by  the  figures  adjacent,  the  +  sign  showing  upward, 
and  —  sign  showing  downward  movement  of  the  rope. 


RIGGING   FOR   THE   RECEIVER  63 

When  the  ropes  have  been  securely  bound,  the  lead- 
ing line  now  on  the  winch  may  be  taken  off  and  led 
over  to  some  stationary  post,  or  part  of  the  building, 
wrapped  around  about  three  turns  and  then  tied  fast. 
The  bottom  end  of  the  receiver  is  now  hung  in  the  fall, 
and  the  winch  is  free  to  pull  up  the  top  end:  Four 
inches  will  be  found  enough  and  then  all  blocking, 
skids  and  plank  can  be  removed,  and  a  hole  made 
through  the  temporary  floor  for  passing  the  receiver 
through. 


FIG.  59 

Now  the  fall  holding  up  the  bottom  end  of  the  piece 
may  be  slowly  slacked  off  and  the  receiver  will  right 
itself,  nearly  straight  up  and  down.  The  fall  on  the 
winch  in  now  slacked  away  and  the  piece  slowly 
lowered  to  place,  being  straightened  if  necessary  with 
a  small  watch  tackle  giving  a  pull  over  on  top. 


VII 

MOVING  A  CYLINDER 

IT  is  always  easier  to  get  a  horizontal  engine  together 
when  the  engine  room  is  so  arranged  that  the  large 
opening  for  entrance  of  machinery  is  in  front  of  the 
fly-wheel  and  the  cylinder  may  be  rolled  into  place 
before  any  of  the  other  parts  are  in  the  building. 
When  this  is  not  the  case,  the  shaft  must  be  rolled  in 
and  laid  over  against  the  wall  in  front,  while  the 
frames  are  being  brought  in.  Then  the  shaft  may 
be  rolled  into  place  and  the  room  cleared  of  lumber. 

There  are  no  pieces  outside  of  the  shaft  of  a  1200 
horse-power  engine  that  will  need  to  be  rolled  through 
the  streets  on  plank  and  rollers.  A  good,  stout  wind- 
lass truck  will  carry  cylinders,  slides  and  frames 
easily,  one  at  a  time. 

Usually  the  cylinders  of  an  engine  are  loaded  onto 
the  car  lengthwise,  that  is,  with  center  line  of  cylinder 
parallel  with  the  long  edge  of  the  car.  It  is  possible 
to  handle  a  cylinder,  even  a  52-in.  low  pressure,  side- 
ways, and  load  it  onto  the  truck,  just  as  was  the 
crank-shaft  onto  its  first  section  of  blocking.  But 
there  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  it,  and  nobody  ever 
does  so.  The  cylinder  should  be  jacked  around 
square  with  the  car  and  shoved  lengthwise  onto  the 

64 


MOVING  A   CYLINDER  65 

wagon.  There  is  nothing  hard  about  jacking  a  cylin- 
der around.  There  is  always  a  nice  handy  place  for 
the  toe  of  a  jack,  and  here  of  all  places  is  a  stone  jack 
convenient.  Place  the  toe  of  the  jack  at  point  A, 
Fig.  60,  and  go  up  far  enough  to  clear  a  strip  of  half- 
inch  iron,  of  width  two  inches,  or  of  any  other  width, 
and  also  high  enough  to  pull  out  and  clear  the  nails 


FIG.  60 

with  which  the  cylinder  skids  are  nailed  to  floor  bottom. 
Go  to  the  other  end  and  get  another  half-inch  strip 
under,  and  things  are  ready  to  slide.  Two  blocks  of 
wood  should  be  spiked  to  the  car  floor  for  footings  for 
jacks,  one  at  each  end,  as  in  Fig.  61,  and  the  jacks  will 
squeeze  the  piece  around  very  handily.  The  flat  iron, 
makes  things  slip  easily  and  it  need  not  be  disturbed 
once  under.  When  the  piece  is  around  square,  the 
jacks  can  be  put  at  A  again  and  three  or  four  rollers 
slid  under  on  top  of  four  inches  of  plank. 

The  wagon  floor  is  some  15  in.  lower  than  the  car 
floor,  and  some  stringers  will  have  to  be  laid  down  to 
reach  down  and  across.  They  need  not  be  very  long, 
however,  6  or  8  ft.  is  enough,  and  if  the  stringers 


66 


ERECTING   WORK 


are  of  6-inch  stuff  they  will  be  stiff  enough  to  hold 
whatever  load  is  to  come  upon  them.  The  wagon 
wheels  should  be  blocked  with  a  good  big  chock  and 
the  load  slowly  slid  on.  If  there  is  a  windlass  on  the 
wagon,  the  easiest  way  to  move  the  load  is,  of  course, 
to  run  a  line  back  from  the  drum  around  the  cylinder. 
The  rope  should  be  protected  where  it  goes  over  and 
around  sharp  corners  with  old  cloth  or  bagging,  for  it 


FIG.  6l 

is  sharp  corners  that  cut  ropes.  The  cylinder  will  start 
without  much  of  a  pull  on  the  rope  and  can  be  kept 
moving  easily.  A  good  stout  rope  or  a  small  fall 
should  be  hitched  to  the  back  end  of  the  cylinder  to 
hold  it  back  when  it  goes  down  the  incline.  Any  part 
of  the  car,  a  stake  hold,  or  some  part  of  the  under  trus- 
sing, will  answer  for  an  anchorage  for  the  head  block, 
and  one  man  with  a  turn  or  two  about  any  convenient 
rail  will  hold  and  steady  the  piece  down  the  hill. 


MOVING   A   CYLINDER  67 

It  is  a  good  plan,  frequently  a  necessary  precaution, 
to  prop  up  the  wagon  where  the  end  of  the  inclined 
stringers  come.  As  the  cylinder  comes  down  the 
stringers,  fully  half  and  perhaps  more  of  the  weight  is 
concentrated  at  that  one  point,  while  the  truck  will 
hold  the  load  all  right  when  spread  out  on  the  skids; 
it  will  not  hold  it  when  heaped  right  onto  one  spot. 
Two  upright  pieces  of  four  by  four  resting  on  a  plank 
on  the  ground  will  hold  the  wagon  platform  up  stiff 
and  strong.  This  precaution  applies  also  when  a  jack 
is  being  used  to  raise  one  end,  as  in  taking  out  or  put- 
ting in  rollers.  Blocking  on  the  axle  is  sometimes 
sufficient.  In  a  case  such  as  this,  these  are  all  the 
precautions  necessary,  for  the  load  comes  on  at  the 
back  of  the  wagon  and  is  nicely  distributed  all  over 
its  surface. 

Whenever  any  piece  is  loaded  upon  a  spring  wagon 
it  must  be  remembered  that  the  springs  give.  Some- 
times a  weight  has  to  be  slid  off  over  one  front  corner. 
If  the  front  axle  is  provided  with  a  platform  spring 
there  is  a  good  chance  of  that  corner  going  down  and 
the  load  being  dropped  to  the  ground.  No  weight  of 
any  consequence  ought  to  be  slid  either  on  or  off  a 
spring  wagon's  front  end  without  first  shoring  up  the 
two  front  corners. 

A  cylinder  may  be  well  left  upon  its  rollers  when  on 
the  wagon.  The  rope  leading  to  the  windlass  should 
still  be  fast  upon  it,  taking  two  or  three  extra  turns  for 
safety,  and  it  can  be  hauled  over  to  the  engine  room 
in  this  way. 

It  is  an  easy  matter  to  take  a  cylinder  off  a  wagon, 


68  ERECTING  WORK 

whether  the  tops  of  foundations  are  high  or  low.  If 
there  is  a  fall  down  to  the  street  level,  an  inclined  run- 
way can  be  built  from  the  tail  end  of  the  wagon,  and 
the  cylinder  will  roll  down  of  its  own  accord  with 
nothing  but  the  rope  from  the  windlass  on  the  wagon 
to  hold  it  from  going  too  fast.  Frequently  the  plat- 
form of  such  a  wagon  or  truck  slopes  back  to  a  low 
hind  end.  This  makes  unloading  down  to  ground  level 
all  the  easier,  for  it  makes  the  corner,  where  there  is  a 
change  in  angle  of  descent,  less  sharp. 

Before  letting  a  load  come  upon  the  engine  room 
floor,  in  passing  from  threshold  to  foundation,  with 
this  cylinder,  for  instance,  the  floor  timbers  should  be 
looked  over.  Many  floors  will  not  stand  much  load- 
ing, and  in  shoving  machinery  over  a  floor  loads  are 
liable  to  become  concentrated  at  some  weak  spot. 
A  weak  floor  must  be  shored  up  with  sound  and  heavy 
timber.  Ten  by  ten  squares  will  answer  in  most 
basements,  stood  up  on  a  good  plank  platform  and 
coming  up  under  a  good  thick  piece,  supporting  two 
or  three  joists.  Half  a  dozen  such  struts  will  stiffen 
up  a  good  big  area  of  floor.  If  the  floor  itself  is  light 
it  can  be  covered  with  2-in.  plank. 

There  is  some  science  in  steering  a  piece  on  rollers  by 
getting  the  proper  angle  for  the  rollers.  A  weight  on 
an  angle  roller  will  move,  of  course,  square  with  the 
roller,  and  clearly  enough  it  makes  no  difference  as  to 
the  shape  of  the  piece.  Fig.  62  illustrates  this  point. 
The  weight  here  will  move  square  across  the  roller 
just  as  it  does  in  Fig.  63.  Friction  itself  prevents  it 
from  doing  anything  else,  unless  it  is  shoved  over  by 


MOVING  A  CYLINDER 


69 


some  force  acting  not  in  the  direction  of  proper  motion. 
So  a  roller  should  be  placed  square  with  the  direction 


FIG.  62 


in  which  it  is  intended  to  move  the  weight,  and  the 
friction  of  load  upon  roller  and  of  roller  upon  plank  will 
tend  to  make  it  take  that  direction  when  a  force  is 


FIG.  63 

applied.     And  it  is  nothing  but  friction  that  makes  it 
take  this  direction. 
This  matter  becomes  more  complicated  when  there 


7o 


ERECTING   WORK 


are  two  or  more  rollers.     In  Fig.  64  rollers  are  parallel, 
and  the  weight  moves  square  with  each.     Fig.  65  gives 


FIG.  64 

a  case  commonly  met  with.  The  load  is  intended  to 
bear  off  to  the  right  and  the  front  roller  is  cut  around 
and  the  front  end  of  the  piece  tends  to  move  on  a 
tangent  to  the  right,  while  the  rear  end  tries  to  keep 


on  straight  ahead.     The  piece  itself  is  rigid,  and,  of 
course,  something  has  got  to  slip.     The  slipping  comes 


MOVING   A   CYLINDER  71 

where  slipping  is  easiest.  If  there  is  an  equal  load  on 
the  two  rollers  the  slipping  divides  itself  equally 
between  the  two,  unless  one  roller  happens  to  be 
smoother  than  the  other.  In  the  case  shown  above, 
the  motion  of  the  whole  thing  is  about  half  way  be- 
tween these  two  directions,  always  providing  the  pull- 
ing force  does  not  compel  it  to  do  something  else. 
But  the  weight  does  not  stay  distributed  equally 
more  than  an  instant.  As  the  load  moves  onward, 
more  and  more  weight  comes  upon  the  front  roller, 
relieving  the  rear  roller,  and  the  direction  becomes 
more  and  more  oblique,  till  the  front  roller  has  the 
entire  weight  and  does  all  the  guiding.  It  is  possible 
in  this  way  to  make  a  weight  turn  quite  a  sharp  corner. 
More  pulling  force  will  be  needed,  the  load  must  move 
harder,  for  something  has  to  provide  the  slipping  force, 
and  this  may  limit  the  shortest  of  the  turn,  for  short 
turns  pull  hardest. 

The  guiding  becomes  more  difficult  when  the  num- 
ber of  rollers  becomes  greater,  sometimes  eight  or  ten 
or  more  on  a  long  heavy  load.  It  frequently  happens 
on  entering  a  cut  roller,  when  there  are  only  four  rollers 
under  in  all,  that  no  change  in  direction  whatever 
takes  place,  even  after  the  roller  is  some  way  under 
and  has  taken  its  load.  The  reason  is,  of  course,  that 
it  is  doing  what  it  can,  but  the  other  rollers  have  three- 
quarters  of  the  load,  and  they  are  determined  that  the 
thing  shall  keep  on  straight.  So  if  a  decided  turn 
must  be  made,  the  direction  of  half  the  rollers  should 
be  changed.  This  can  usually  be  done  by  striking 
at  A,  Fig.  65,  with  a  heavy  sledge  or  a  timber  ram. 


72  ERECTING  WORK 

If,  however,  the  roller  does  not  yield  readily,  the  load 
should  be  relieved  at  this  point  with  a  jack  and  the 
roller  then  pounded  around.  Usually  when  a  roller 
cannot  be  pounded  around  with  the  weight  upon  it, 
it  will  have  some  say  in  directing  the  load  when  the 
time  comes  to  move. 

When  a  roller  is  cut  around,  one  end  will  begin  to 
roll  under  the  load  till  finally  that  end  is  away  under 
the  nearest  skid.  The  dotted  line  in  Fig.  65  shows  this. 
The  other  end  will  be  sticking  away  out  ready  to  catch 
door  casings  or  anything  else  in  the  way,  and  must  be 
moved  back.  A  jack  is  needed  here.  For  wherever 
a  roller  is  pounded  endwise  with  any  force  it  starts  to 
split.  Such  practise  should  not  be  allowed  among  a 
gang  of  men.  It  is  easier,  but  half  a  dozen  good  clips 
will  spoil  the  best  roller  ever  turned. 

It  is  sometimes  necessary  to  jack  one  end  of  a  cylinder 
or  other  weight  around,  supposing,  for  instance,  that  one 
end  is  too  near  a  door  casing.  It  is  enough  to  place 
the  jack  horizontally  and  the  load  will  go  around,  pro- 
vided there  is  any  weight  upon  the  roller  nearest  the 
jack.  If  all  the  load  is  at  the  center,  or  even  a  good 
share  of  it,  the  piece  simply  turns  about  that  center; 
one  end  goes  out  while  the  other  comes  in,  and  nothing 
is  gained  so  far  as  a  shove  over  is  concerned.  A  good 
share  of  the  load  must  be  made  to  come  where  the  jack 
is  placed  if  it  is  desired  to  move  one  end  only.  This 
will  be  known  by  the  relative  looseness  of  the  rollers 
at  the  unloaded  end,  and  before  trying  to  move  over 
sideways,  some  load  should  be  taken  here  by  blocking 
up  the  rollers  an  inch,  or  whatever  is  necessary. 


MOVING   A   CYLINDER 


73 


There  are  always  some  gaps  in  the  surface  of  a  foun- 
dation. There  must  be  one  at  least  for  the  exhaust 
pipe,  and  frequently  an  opening  is  left  under  the  slide. 
These  spaces  are  24  in.  wide  or  so.  Planks  can  be  laid 
across  for  a  footing  for  rollers  and  the  surface  made 
continuous  temporarily.  This  is  not  necessary,  how- 
ever. If  the  width  of  a  space  is  less  than  one-half  the 
length  of  the  cylinder  itself  (not  the  overall  length  of 
the  skids),  it  can  be  passed  very  nicely,  at  least  with 
anything  but  the  largest  sizes  of  cylinders.  The  prin- 


FIG.  66 

ciple  is  that  of  the  cantilever,  and  is  shown  in  Fig.  66. 
The  roller  A  does  not  drop  down  until  roller  B  is  just 
ready  to  catch  its  load.  Rollers  have  to  be  watched, 
and  rollers  A  and  B  should  be  good  and  sound,  for  on  a 
wide  gap  they  catch  nearly  the  whole  weight  of  the 
outfit,  and  if  the  load  is  too  much  for  one  roller  the  gap 
must  be  filled  with  blocking. 

By  such  methods  as  these  may  a  cylinder  be  rolled 
to  its  place,  its  skids  removed  and  lowered  down  to  its 
capstones  resting  on  some  strips  of  iron,  to  allow  of 
entering  a  wedge  when  the  time  comes. 


74  ERECTING  WORK 

So  also  a  slide  section  is  hauled  over  on  its  skids; 
and  the  pillow-block  section  or  main  frame,  the  best  of 
all  to  handle,  for  its  weight  is  so  low  down  and  all  six 
pieces  may  be  strung  along  the  foundation. 


VIII 

UNLOADING  A  HEAVY  SHAFT 

Two  equal  and  opposite  unbalanced  forces  applied 
to  a  rigid  body  will  make  it  turn  about  its  center  of 
gravity.  So  with  a  crank-shaft,  skidded  and  lying  on 
a  flat  car.  But  the  forces  must  both  be  unbalanced; 
and  it  is  easy  to  tell  when  they  are  unbalanced,  for  the 
shaft  will  not  move  until  they  are.  When  the  forces 
are  sufficient,  as  for  instance,  the  forces  or  pull  coming 
from  two  leads  to  a  hoisting  engine  drum  and  one  of  its 
capstan  heads,  the  shaft  ends  around  just  as  if  it  were 
on  a  pivot.  It  looks  a  little  mite  unusual  at  first,  and 
the  awful  consequences  of  a  dropped  shaft  do  loom 
up,  but  there  is  not  a  safer  or  handier  way  of  ending  a 
shaft  around.  (Fig.  67).  It  is  not  always  necessary 
to  end  a  shaft  around,  however,  to  get  it  off  its  car. 
Sometimes  it  can  be  slid  off  the  end;  and  if  the  shaft 
must  be  hauled  along  in  the  direction  of  the  track  for  a 
ways,  it  is  better  of  course  to  take  the  shaft  off  side- 
ways. Then  new  skids  must  be  provided,  lying  be- 
neath and  across  the  others.  They  are  short  and  need 
not  be  very  heavy,  however;  10  X  io's  are  heavy 
enough,  or  even  three  8  X  8's  at  each  end.  This  will 
mean  a  good  deal  of  jacking,  lifting  the  shaft  straight 
up,  for  there  are  the  ten  inches  of  short  skid,  eight 

75 


76 


ERECTING   WORK 


inches  of  roller  and  there  should  be  three  inches  more 
for  planks  for  the  roller  to  go  upon,  for  they  will  bind 
the  cribbing  to  the  car  and  can  be  taken  out  when  the 


FIG.  67 

shaft  has  been  moved  over  and  is  being  raised  again  to 

straighten  the  rollers.     The  skids  and  rollers  will  appear 

as  shown  in  Fig.  68  when  the  shaft  is  ready  to  move. 

It  is  apparent  that  great  care  should  be  used  in  plac- 


UNLOADING  A  HEAVY  SHAFT 


77 


78  ERECTING   WORK 

ing  jacks  properly,  and  blocks  should  be  so  laid  that 
they  will  take  weight  properly.  In  beginning  to  raise 
the  shaft,  the  first  hold  is  liable  to  be  under  one  of  the 
cranks,  point  A,  Fig.  68.  As  pressure  is  brought  on, 
the  whole  outfit  should  be  watched  to  see  that  it  all 
comes  together  square  and  even,  that  there  is  no  tend- 
ency to  slip  or  twist  the  jack,  that  its  hold  is  good. 
Also  the  skids  must  be  kept  from  spreading.  If  they 
are  to  be  used  more  than  once,  long  bolts  should  be 
run  through  from  side  to  side  with  8x8  cross  braces 
to  make  things  rigid.  And  one  end  only  should  be 
raised  at  a  time.  One  end  must  rest  solidly  on  block- 
ing while  the  other  is  resting  upon  a  jack.  Whenever 
any  weight  rests  upon  three  points  with  its  center  of 
weight  inside  the  three,  it  is  stable;  so  there  must  be 
always  three  points  of  support.  In  this  case  the 
friction  of  the  other  two  keeps  the  jack  in  place  and 
upright.  If  things  move  along  properly  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  jack  under  A  cannot  be  pumped  up 
high  enough  to  allow  a  4-in.  plank  to  be  placed 
under  at  point  M,  precisely  under  the  skid  blocking 
which  comes  up  under  the  shaft.  A  4-in.  block 
would  answer,  but  when  the  other  end  is  jacked  up, 
starting  under  the  crank  as  before,  the  weight  is  thrown 
cornerwise  on  the  square  block  and  it  tends  to  tip  up. 
This  is  prevented  by  placing  a  good  wide  plank  under 
at  M.  In  all  this  jacking  the  weight  should  be  fol- 
lowed up  closely  with  inch  pieces  and  wedges,  having 
surface  enough  so  that  they  will  not  crush.  When 
both  ends  are  up  four  inches,  both  resting  upon  plank, 
the  two  jacks  can  be  brought  to  one  end,  their  toes 


UNLOADING   A  HEAVY  SHAFT  79 

placed  at  M,  as  nearly  as  may  be,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  shaft,  and  things  can  be  made  to  move  faster. 
Eight  inches  can  be  gained  at  this  one  setting,  or  if 
the  blocking  seems  all  right,  the  jack  can  be  shoved 
out  to  nearly  its  limit.  It  will  take  something  more 
than  plank  to  take  the  weight  at  the  high  end  now. 
There  are  twelve  inches  to  be  blocked  up  and  the  prin- 
ciple of  the  cob  house  will  have  to  be  applied.  Nothing 
could  be  more  unstable  than  two  4-in.  square  blocks 
piled  lengthwise  one  on  top  of  the  other,  unless 
perhaps  it  be  three  such  blocks.  If  they  are  depended 
upon  to  hold  anything  except  weight,  they  are  sure  to 
topple  over.  If,  however,  two  blocks,  say  six  or  eight 
inch,  be  laid  lengthwise  one  on  each  side  of  each  skid, 
two  or  three  2-in.  plank  laid  across,  the  whole  thing 
will  make  up  the  distance  and  allow  the  other  end  of 
the  shaft  to  be  raised.  That  end  can  be  put  right  up 
to  its  place  now,  though  it  would  be  better  to  go  only 
half  way  and  bring  the  end  up  last  from  a  4-in.  rise. 
The  skids  should,  of  course,  not  be  allowed  to  rest 
upon  a  corner  of  a  plank,  with  the  whole  weight  of  that 
end  coming  at  that  point.  The  outfit  in  coming  up 
one  end  at  a  time  must  of  course  be  out  of  level,  and  a 
platform  of  two  planks  or  more,  with  wedges  and  inch 
pieces,  should  be  used  to  give  a  bearing  surface  of 
ample  area.  This  caution  should  be  hardly  necessary, 
for  whenever  too  great  a  load  is  brought  upon  a  piece 
of  wood,  it  begins  to  yield  slowly  and  there  is  ample 
time  to  strengthen  up  weak  points  if  they  are  seen  in 
time,  and  the  most  ordinary  care  will  prevent  serious 
mishaps  from  this  cause. 


8o 


ERECTING   WORK 


When  the  shaft  is  brought  up  level,  twenty  inches 
in  the  clear,  or  a  little  more,  between  skids  and  car 
floor,  resting  upon  plank  and  blocking,  one  end  can  be 
raised  with  the  two  jacks  at  points  M  and  its  opposite, 
and  the  short  skids  X  put  in  place,  also  the  rollers  and 
the  plank  on  top  of  the  car  floor,  and  the  shaft  lowered 
to  its  place.  Before  stirring  the  other  end  the  rollers 
should  be  blocked  from  moving  when  they  are  sup- 
posed to  be  standing  still.  Pieces  of  2  X  4  stuff  are 
handy  for  this  purpose.  Cut  them  into  2-ft.  lengths 


FIG.  69 

and  pare  them  down  on  one  edge  as  in  Fig.  69. 
These  pieces  will  not  slip.  Both  sides  or  at  least  two 
rollers  should  be  securely  blocked  and  a  chock  under 
every  roller  won't  hurt.  When  one  end  is  in  proper 
position  the  other  can  be  treated  in  the  same  way  and 
the  whole  will  appear  as  shown  in  Fig.  68. 

Enough  rollers  should  be  used  to  make  an  easy 
bearing  surface  for  the  whole.  It  is  rarely  that  a  roller 
will  actually  crush,  due  to  an  overload  alone.  But 
overloaded  rollers  will  sink  into  the  wood,  top  and 
bottom,  and  the  weight  will  move  five  times  as  hard 
as  it  should.  The  more  rollers  the  easier  the  thing 
moves  and  the  less  danger  of  mishap.  An  8-in.  roller 


UNLOADING   A  HEAVY  SHAFT  81 

every  eighteen  inches  is  none  too  close  on  that  heavy 
shaft. 

When  things  are  ready,  as  shown  in  Fig.  68,  it  will 
be  time  to  build  a  runway  along  the  car,  and  some  nice 
square  blocks  and  good  plank  are  needed.  Also  some 
good  long  sticks  of  i2-in.  timber  will  help.  A  flat  car 
floor  is  about  five  feet  above  the  tops  of  the  rails  and  a 
good,  solid  foundation  of  blocking  must  be  laid  even 
with  the  top  of  car  floor  and  as  long  as  the  skids,  level 
and  square.  This  first  section  can,  of  course,  have  no 
pitch,  and  somewhat  more  blocking  will  be  needed 
than  would  be  necessary  when  taking  a  shaft  off  end- 
ways. Eight-inch  square  blocks  are  most  convenient 
for  such  work.  They  are  big  enough  to  count  up 
pretty  fast  in  the  piling  and  are  not  too  heavy  to  lift. 
However,  a  big  i6-in.  chunk  has  virtues  which  are 
prized  by  the  fraternity,  and  even  a  pile  of  railroad 
sleepers  are  valuable.  The  ground  is  the  beginning 
of  the  pile  and  it  is  easy  to  provide  a  good  starting 
surface.  Ordinarily  the  ground  in  these  places  is 
pretty  soft  and  muddy.  In  such  cases  the  best  way, 
where  it  can  be  done,  is  to  dig  down  a  little  way, 
enough  to  remove  all  the  material  that  would  be 
powder  if  it  were  dry,  till  a  firmer  material  is  reached 
(six  inches  is  usually  deep  enough),  and  make  a  trench 
wide  enough  for  two  sleepers  side  by  side,  square  with 
the  track.  Do  this  in  four  places  and  this  start  will  be 
solid  enough  to  hold  up  any  weight  that  can  be  hauled 
on  a  railroad  car.  Long  timbers  are  now  needed. 
The  whole  length  of  the  shaft  skids  will  be  about  16  ft. 
and  timbers  of  this  length  are  very  convenient  for  the 


82  ERECTING   WORK 

bottom  of  the  block  pile.  Two  12  X  12  or  three  10 
X  10  of  this  length  will  make  a  good  solid  start. 
Lighter  timbers  may  be  used,  but  they  should  be  sup- 
ported often  enough  to  make  them  good  and  stiff. 
The  sleepers  in  the  trench  should  be  level  and  bear  all 
over  on  their  bottom  faces,  while  the  tops  may  come 
up  an  inch  or  so  above  the  ground.  The  long  timbers 
are  laid  directly  upon  these  sleepers,  stringing  out 
parallel  with  the  car  and  as  far  from  it  as  convenient, 
say  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet,  to  the  nearer  one. 
Now  two  sections  of  8-in.  square  blocks  can  be  started, 
so  that  the  over  all  lengths  will  be  a  little  more  than  the 
whole  length  of  the  skids,  and  two  piles  cob  housed  up 
to  make  a  support  for  the  top  stringers.  The  stringers 
can  be  supported  in  at  least  four  places  and  the  longest 
span  need  not  be  over  six  feet,  and  only  one-half  the 
weight  of  the  shaft  can  possibly  come  on  this  section, 
and  even  then  the  load  will  not  come  in  the  center. 
So  three  12  X  I2's  or  even  three  10  X  io's  will  answer 
for  the  top  stringers.  Lighter  timbers  may  be  used, 
or  even  good  sound  plank  laid  one  on  top  of  another, 
but  in  these  cases  more  supports  should  be  used  and  a 
smaller  crib  built  up  between  the  other  two. 

The  top  planks  lying  across  car  body  and  blocking 
should  be  supported  as  often  as  possible. 

The  blocking  will  appear  now  as  shown  in  Figs.  70 
and  71. 

When  this  first  section  of  blocking  is  finished  as 
shown  in  the  figures,  the  shaft  may  be  moved  over  and 
the  car  cleared.  It  will  take  considerable  force  to 
move  it.  A  rope  fall,  or  two  or  three  chain  falls,  will 


UNLOADING   A  HEAVY  SHAFT  83 

furnish  enough  power,  but  it  is  usually  not  convenient 
to  provide  a  fixed  and  rigid  point  for  fastening  the  head 
block.  A  freight  car  will  answer,  or  a  good  stiff  piece 
of  track,  a  frog  for  instance,  but  it  will  not  pay  to 


FIG.  70 


locate  a  dead  man  for  such  a  short  pull.  The  most 
convenient  tool  for  this  work  is  a  pair  of  stone  jacks. 
Any  kind  of  a  jack  can  be  made  to  answer,  a  screw 
jack,  or  even  some  of  the  patent  ratchet  jacks,  but 


FIG.  71 


nothing  fits  as  well  as  the  stone  jack,  and  the  sto^e 
jack  will  be  a  help  all  through  the  work.  There  is  very 
little  friction  in  its  moving  under  load,  at  least  in  com- 
parison with  the  screw  jack,  for  there  is  so  little  rub- 


84  ERECTING  WORK 

bing,  nothing  but  a  train  of  gears  held  by  a  ratchet 
and  pawl.  The  thing  is  as  efficient  as  a  compound 
hand  winch.  When  two  6-ton  stone  jacks  are  used, 
one  man  at  each  end  can  make  that  shaft  walk  over 
very  handily.  The  jacks  will  hold  very  well  at  an 
angle  of  45  deg. ;  the  more  nearly  to  a  horizontal  posi- 
tion they  are  placed,  the  easier  will  the  jack  move. 
The  foot  will  not  slip  at  that  angle,  but  if  as  the  shaft 
moves  onward  the  foot  of  the  jack  does  not  seem  to 
hold  well,  a  piece  of  2  X  4  spiked  to  the  car  floor  will 
answer,  and  it  is  easy  to  make  two  feet  or  more  at  each 
setting  of  the  jack.  The  force  required  to  move  such 
a  piece  under  these  conditions  is  a  small  matter.  It  is 
easy  to  put  two  men  on  a  jack.  The  time  is  used  up 
in  getting  ready.  If  much  space  has  been  left  between 
the  car  body  and  the  pile  of  blocking  it  is  well  to  keep 
the  load  off  that  point.  It  will  be  enough,  however, 
to  have  a  roller  ready  just  before  the  advancing  side 
gets  across,  and  to  place  no  roller  in  the  middle  6f  the 
space  when  the  skid  ends  reach  that  point.  The  rollers 
already  under  need  not  be  disturbed,  for  the  load  will 
be  very  well  distributed  before  much  of  it  comes  here. 
The  shaft  over,  preparation  can  be  made  for  taking 
away  the  rollers,  plank  and  cross  skids,  and  the  new 
row  of  rollers  put  under,  ready  for  the  straightaway 
pull.  The  shaft  is  some  12  in.  or  more  higher  than  it 
need  be  and  must  be  lowered  carefully  to  its  proper 
bed.  It  will  be  found  easiest  to  begin  at  the  back 
end,  for  that  end  need  be  lowered  very  little  if  at  all. 
The  runway  starts  down  an  inclined  plane,  and  if  the 
front  end  only  is  lowered,  the  sharp  corner  where  the 


UNLOADING  A  HEAVY  SHAFT  85 

track  turns  down  will  be  avoided.  There  is  consider- 
able spring  in  the  timber  of  skids  and  blocking,  enough 
to  pass  by  a  good  deal  of  unevenness.  But  that  slant- 
ing track  will  start  off  at  a  pitch  of  one  in  five  or  so, 
and  if  the  shaft  were  pushed  on  over  this  there  would 
come  an  increasing  load  on  the  main  skids  as  their 
center  approached  the  corner,  till  finally  the  whole 
load  would  come  at  that  point  and  the  skids  must 
break.  That  trouble  can  be  avoided,  as  already 
pointed  out. 

The  best  place  for  the  jacks  is  at  point  X  (Fig.  68) 
and  its  mate  opposite;  foot  of  jack  on  the  plank,  over 
a  good  column  of  blocking,  and  the  toes  under  the 
cross  skid  at  X.  A  short  rise  will  clear  the  other  two 
planks,  two  cross  skids  and  all  the  rollers  at  that  end. 
Now  the  aim  will  be  to  build  an  inclined  run,  the  high 
end  eight  inches  below  the  bottom  of  the  skids,  just 
the  diameter  of  a  roller,  and  the  low  end  just  to  cross 
the  end  G,  Fig.  70.  Only  a  short  section  can  be  built, 
for  the  blocks  at  the  front  end  will  be  in  the  way,  but  it 
must  be  started  now.  The  two  8  X  8's  will  answer 
for  the  top  stringers,  and  an  8  X  8  with  a  short  piece 
of  plank  will  answer  for  block  at  the  high  end,  and 
thinner  stuff  for  the  other  end.  The  slope  is  gradual 
enough  so  that  no  trouble  will  be  found  in  providing 
proper  support  for  rollers.  The  roller  farthest  back 
should  be  placed  at  N,  or  at  least  not  as  far  back  as  X, 
for  this  roller  is  to' answer  for  a  turning  point  in  lower- 
ing the  other  end;  but  beginning  there,  cross  rollers 
should  be  distributed  about  every  18  in.  down  the  in- 
cline and  chocked  there  in  place. 


86  ERECTING   WORK 

For  lowering  the  front  end  place  the  jacks  at  point 
K  and  its  opposite  on  top  of  the  3-in.  plank  and  under 
the  8-in.  cross  piece.  Two  planks,  two  blocks  and 
all  rollers  will  be  made  free.  The  cross  plank  at  K 
will  remain,  but  need  not  be  in  the  way.  The  block 
K  will  have  to  come  out  later  and  a  roller  put  in  its 
place,  but  it  gives  a  good  hold  for  the  present  for  the 
jacks.  Now  the  incline  should  be  finished  to  point  G 
of  blocks  and  plank,  and  a  roller  placed  and  chocked 
at  Z,  and  more  rollers  strung  out  to  cover  the  skids. 

Lower  on  the  jacks  now  and  the  shaft  rests  on  a  row 
of  chocked  rollers  and  a  square  block  at  A'.  It  will 
be  time  to  stretch  out  a  small  fall  now,  one  inch  or  one 
and  a  quarter  inches  will  answer,  with  a  set  of  three 
sheave  blocks  for  holding  back  on  the  shaft  as  it  goes 
down  the  incline.  It  will  not  take  a  great  force  to 
hold  the  shaft,  not  nearly  as  much  as  would  start  it, 
of  course,  but  hold  backs  are  needed  to  avoid  the  outfit 
going  down  hill  too  fast.  If  the  incline  is  short,  two 
such  falls  should  be  used.  Fasten  the  head  blocks  to  a 
string  of  freight  cars,  if  they  are  convenient,  or  to  a 
track,  though  the  falls  should  be  long  if  they  are  to  pull 
on  the  track,  for  of  course  the  tendency  is  to  lift  the 
track.  One  frieght  car  would  hold  it  down,  however. 
Two  or  three  turns  with  the  leading  line  about  some 
convenient  fixed  point,  with  one  man  to  hold  back, 
will  answer  for  this  end  of  the  work. 

The  runway  shown  in  Fig.  72  should  be  built  now 
of  the  longest  timber  to  be  had,  for  25  ft.  is  none  too 
long  for  this  slope.  If  long  timbers  are  not  to  be  had, 
shorter  ones  will  answer,  placed  end  to  end.  Timber 


UNLOADING   A   HEAVY   SHAFT 


88  ERECTING  WORK 

laid  directly  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground  will  answer 
for  foundation  here,  with  cob  housing  as  shown  in  the 
cut.  Support  lo-in.  timbers  every  five  feet  and 
i2-in.  every  seven  or  eight  at  the  very  least.  Ease 
off  the  bottom  hollow  with  tapering  block  and  plank 
as  shown,  Fig.  72. 

The  jacks  should  be  placed  under  the  skids  now  and 
the  block  at  K  removed  and  a  roller  put  in  its  place, 
all  chocks  removed  and  the  shaft  is  ready  to  go  down 
hill.  Start  it  off  with  a  push  from  behind  with  the 
stone  jacks,  and  she  can  be  kept  moving  as  fast  as  the 
men  on  the  falls  holding  back,  slack  off  their  hold. 
The  movement  should  be  slow.  But  with  rollers 
placed  square  and  true,  the  shaft  will  slide  down  to 
the  ground  without  trouble. 


IX 

RIGGING  FOR  A  HEAVY  LIFT 

HAULING  a  65-ton  shaft  up  an  incline  of  one  in  six  or 
one  in  eight  will  call  for  considerable  force,  fully 
double  what  is  needed  to  make  a  move  on  level  track, 
for,  of  course,  the  lifting  takes  its  full  share  of  the 
resistance.  So  the  rope  and  rigging  must  be  stronger, 
multiplying  the  prime  force  by  two  or  more.  .  The 
whole  moving  force  at  the  shaft  may  be  12  or  14  tons 
for  a  long  slope  and  force  acting  parallel  with  slope, 
approaching  16  or  more  as  the  slope  becomes  steeper. 
If  this  force  runs  higher  than  1 6  tons,  however,  it  will 
usually  be  found  more  convenient  to  raise  the  pieces 
straight  up  with  jacks. 

In  lashing  blocks  for  rope  falls  to  a  load  such  as  this, 
they  should  be  applied  at  the  point  where  the  resistance 
to  onward  motion  comes  as  nearly  as  may  be.  The 
line  of  resistance  in  moving  up  an  incline  is  not  through 
the  center  of  gravity  of  the  piece,  and  is  not  in  the  line 
of  shaft  at  all.  It  is  away  down  to  the  very  bottom 
surface  of  the  skids,  just  on  top  of  the  rollers.  Imag- 
ine the  effect  of  a  force  pulling  along  the  line  of  the 
shaft's  center  in  Fig.  73.  If  the  for.ce  were  great 
enough  the  shaft  would  have  to  come,  but  what  must 
happen  to  the  skids,  even  if  they  were  on  rollers? 

89 


9o 


ERECTING   WORK 


The  whole  moving  force,  whatever  it  might  be,  would 
be  trying  to  make  the  skids  take  the  shape  shown  in 
Fig.  74.  There  is  nothing  to  make  the  skids  themselves 
move  except  the  force  which  comes  down  through  the 


FIG.  73 


pile  of  cross  timber  and  the  effect  is  the  same  as  would 
come  were  two  forces  precisely  equal,  and  each  enough 
to  move  the  weight  applied  as  shown  at  A  and  B, 
Fig.  74.  It  is  clear  that  as  these  two  forces  approach 


FIG.  74 


each  other,  that  is  as  A  is  applied  lower  down,  the 
twisting  effect  becomes  less  and  less  and  when  A  gets 
right  down  to  the  skids  there  is  no  twisting  force 


RIGGING   FOR  A  HEAVY   LIFT  91 

whatever.  So  lashing  should  be  so  rigged  that  the 
pull  will  come  down  low,  and  the  most  convenient 
point  will  be  at  CC,  Fig.  73. 

In  order  to  lash  the  block  securely  to  this  load,  at 
least  four  turns  of  one  and  one-half  inch  rope  should 
be  used,  and  more,  even  six  will  not  be  much  out  of 
proportion.  .  This  will  give  eight  or  more  hauling  parts 
but  they  are  not,  of  course,  pulling  in  the  direction  of 
motion  and  this  whole  strength  is  reduced  in  propor- 
tion to  the  shortness  of  the  hitch.  Long  hitches  are 
best,  if  there  is  none  too  much  rope  handy,  and  the 
lashing  is  bound  about  something  that  spreads  the 
parts  of  the  lashing  out  wide,  as  Fig.  73  will  do. 

A  great  many  rope  blocks  will  not  take  in  four  parts 
of  one  and  one-half  inch  rope  in  the  hook.  Most  blocks 
are  defective  in  this  respect.  There  is  not  room  enough 
in  the  hook  or  clevis  to  take  in  rope  enough  to  equal 
the  strength  of  the  fall  itself.  When  this  is  the  case, 
it  is  best  to  have  a  link  or  clevis  forged  that  will  take  in 
plenty  of  lashing  and  big  and  stout  enough  to  stand 
hard  usage.  The  rope  block  may  be  hooked  into  this 
link.  Also  the  hook  itself  should  be  looked  at.  These 
hooks  are  frequently  weak.  A  clevis  is  better  and 
stronger,  though  not  always  as  convenient.  On  any 
heavy  pull  the  hook  should  be  bound  with  marline  to 
stiffen  it  up,  as  shown  in  Fig.  75.  This  will  help 
enormously  in  preventing  the  hook  from  straightening 
out,  as  shown  in  Fig.  76.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  make  a 
clamp,  as  shown  in  Fig.  77,  to  bolt  on,  which  may 
make  a  hook  almost  as  stout  as  a  clevis. 

A  single  rope  fall  for  one  and  one-quarter  inch  rope, 


92 


ERECTING   WORK 


rove  through  three  and  two  sheave  blocks  will  not  be 
strong  enough  to  haul  such  a  shaft  as  this  up  the  hill. 
Two  falls  of  this  size  will  answer  very  well,  however, 


FIG.  75 


FIG.   76 


but  the  rope  should  be  in  prime  condition  for  such  a 
pull.  There  is  always  one  difficulty  in  getting  two 
falls  to  do  the  work  of  one,  which  must  be  guarded 
against.  If  two  falls  each  had  an  independent  hitch 
to  a  load  and  their  hauling  lines  are  led  to  separate 
hand  winches,  it  is  easy  to  see  that  there  is  no  way  of 
dividing  the  load  equally,  or  even  approximately 


FIG.  77 


equal  between  the  two.  So  long  as  one  was  kept  up 
taut,  with  no  slack  and  perhaps  a  little  load,  it  would 
appear  just  like  the  other  which  has  the  full  load. 
Some  idea  may  be  had,  to  be  sure,  by  taking  a  line  in 


RIGGING   FOR  A   HEAVY   LIFT 


93 


the  hand,  as  to  how  much  load  it  has,  but  this  cannot 
be  depended  upon  for  halving  a  load  up.  A  fall  should 
always  be  tested  in  that  way,  however,  when  the 
amount  of  the  load  is  at  all  uncertain.  But  if  the  load 
is  so  much  that  it  seems  best  not  to  have  much  over 
one-half  of  it  on  each  of  two  falls,  some  way  of  equal- 
ing things  up  must  be  devised.  Fig.  78  shows  an  easy 


TO  HEAD  BLOCK 
AND  WINCH 


FIG.    78 


way  which  is  the  principle  of  the  evener  on  a  two- 
horse  wagon.  One  fall  must  have  about  the  same 
load  as  the  other  if  the  cross  timber  is  kept  anywhere 
near  square. 

If  there  are  to  be  many  heavy  pulls,  it  is  of  course 
more  convenient  to  have  one  good  heavy  fall  of  2-in. 
rope,  two  inches  in  diameter.  It  is  always  best  in 
ordering  rope  to  specify  whether  the  measurement 
refers  to  circumference  or  to  diameter.  Some  riggers 
and  ship  chandlers  always  speak  of  a  size  as  referring 
to  circumference,  while  an  engineer  always  thinks  of 
diameter.  And  again,  rope  is  sometimes  ordered  by 


94 


ERECTING   WORK 


the  circumference,  three-inch,  for  instance,  when  a  nice 
light  fall  of  inch-diameter  rope  is  wanted,  and  the  next 
day  a  dray  backs  up  with  a  hawser  stout  enough  for  a 
man-of-war.  In  the  articles  relating  to  this  subject  a  si^e 
refers  to  the  diameter.  Six  parts  of  2-in.  rope  will  be 
good  for  40  tons  on  work  such  as  this.  Inch  and  one- 
quarter  rope  is  spoken  of  here  more  often  because  it 
is  a  convenient  size  to  handle  and  is  still  stout  enough 
for  heavy  work. 

If  two  falls  are  used  on  this  load,  there  will  be 
needed  a  hauling  force  on  the  leading  ropes  of  about 
one  ton,  which  may  be  furnished  by  the  hand  winches, 
or  by  luff  tackles. 

When  a  load  is  being  hauled  up  an  incline,  the 
rollers  must  be  followed  closely  with  chocks  to  prevent 
the  piece  running  down  in  case  of  a  break  in  the  rigging 
pulling  ahead.  Any  one  rope  breaking  of  course  lets 
the  whole  load  back.  And  the  chocks  should  be  good 
big  chunks.  A  load  will  go  over  an  inch  piece  if  it  has 
a  trifling  start;  more  than  one  roller  should  be  chocked. 
A  man  on  each  side  with  a  chock  in  each  hand  taking 
in  both  ends  of  two  rollers  which  have  a  good  load  on 
them  will  not  be  an  over  caution. 

When  a  shaft  has  been  hauled  up  in  front  of  its 
pillow-blocks,  as  shown  in  Fig.  73,  the  easy  part  of 
the  work  is  finished.  There  is  less  room  to  work  in 
then,  and  there  will  be  much  for  the  jacks  to  do. 
The  piece  must  be  raised  to  the  position  shown  in  Fig. 
79,  high  enough  for  everything  to  clear  when  the  shaft 
is  rolled  over.  If  the  generator  frame  parts  in  a  hori- 
zontal plane,  the  shaft  must  go  up  till  the  bottom 


RIGGING   FOR  A   HEAVY   LIFT 


95 


circumference  of  the  armature  clears  the  top  of  the 
lower  half  frame.  This  may  require  the  whole  shaft 
to  go  up  so  that  its  center  is  nearly  seven  feet  above 
the  tops  of  the  foundation,  or  four  feet  higher  than  it 
will  be  when  in  place.  And  it  will  have  to  be  raised 
some  three  feet  higher  than  it  is  when  lying  on  skids 
and  rollers. 


FIG.  79 

It  is  possible  to  raise  the  shaft  up  clear  of  the  skids, 
resting  it  upon  blocking,  and  by  taking  the  skids  apart 
they  may  be  pulled  out  of  the  way.  But  it  is  usually 
easier  to  let  the  shaft  lie  in  the  skids  and  raise  the 
whole  thing  together.  This  will  save  a  good  deal  of 
blocking  nearly  half  of  the  whole  amount  needed  in 
raising,  and  is  quite  as  easy.  The  two  jacks  should  be 
taken  to  one  end  of  the  skids,  one  on  each  side  with 
toes  under  the  point  where  the  cross  blocking  comes. 


96  ERECTING  WORK 

One  end  goes  up  at  a  time,  and  a  cob  house  pile  of 
8-in.  blocks  four  high  will  usually  be  enough,  the  skids 
resting  fair  and  level  on  such  a  pile  at  each  end. 

The  next  question  will  be  in  getting  the  shaft  out 
of  its  seat  on  the  skids  and  onto  a  run  reaching  over 
tops  of  pillow-block  jaws,  and  coming  up  fair  under 
what  is  to  be  the  shaft  journals.  Now,  one  jack  must 
be  placed  with  its  foot  resting  on  a  block  laid  across 
the  skids,  and  with  its  top  coming  up  under  a  saddle 
like  that  shown  in  Fig.  80,  under  the  shaft.  The  jack 


FIG.  80 

may  be  placed  either  in  front  of  the  pile  of  cross  block 
or  behind  it.  There  is  usually  more  room  behind  it. 
Care  must  be  used  here  for  there  is  nothing  but  friction 
to  prevent  the  shaft  from  turning  over  and  knocking 
the  jack  out;  so  jacks  must  be  placed  precisely  under 
the  center  line  of  shaft  on  such  lifts  as  these,  and  the 
opening  coming  over  the  seat  of  the  shaft  must  be 
filled  up  closely  with  blocking.  Inch  pieces  and 
wedges  must  be  shoved  in  wherever  there  is  a  chance. 
A  piece  of  2-in.  plank  should  be  shaped  up  as  shown 
in  Fig.  8 1  for  each  end.  These  will  be  used  in  lowering 
the  shaft  too,  and  will  be  the  start  of  the  blocking 
when  raising  out  of  the  wooden  seat.  Two-inch  pieces 
piled  one  piece  atop  of  another  will  fill  the  hollow  in 
the  top  block  as  the  shaft  goes  up.  One  end,  of  course, 
must  go  up  at  a  time,  and  it  is  best  to  make  short  lifts 


RIGGING   FOR  A  HEAVY   LIFT 


97 


and  keep  the  shaft  pretty  nearly  level,  for  extreme 
care  must  be  used  here. 
The  shaft  must  go  high  enough  to  allow  12-in.  timbers 


FIG.  8l 


to  pass  under,  as  shown  in  Fig.  82,  side  by  side,  and 
these  timbers  are  to  reach  away  across  and  rest  on  block- 
ing on  top  of  the  pillow-block  jaws.  If  12-in.  timber  is 
not  to  be  had,  4-in.  plank  may  be  used,  stiffened  up  as 


FIG.  82 


shown  in  Fig.  79,  and  two  or  three  piles  made.  The 
number  and  size  of  plank  and  blocking  will  depend  upon 
the  length  of  span.  The  load  is  concentrated  at  a  sin- 


98  ERECTING  WORK 

gle  point  here  and  allowance  should  be  made  accord- 
ingly. If  two  i2-in.  timbers  are  laid  side  by  side  at 
each  end,  they  should  be  supported  about  every  three 
feet,  either  with  a  block  or  with  a  good  solid  stud. 

No  great  force  will  be  required  to  start  the  shaft 
rolling  over  and  moving  toward  its  bearings.  It  should 
be  started  square,  for  it  is  not  easy  to  slide  one  end 
ahead  to  even  things  up.  Five  or  six  turns  of  inch 
and  one-half  lashing  may  be  wrapped  about  one  of 
the  cranks  and  one  end  of  the  lashing  hooked  onto  the 
hauling  tackle  which  has  its  leading  line  going  to  the 
winding  drum  of  the  winch,  as  in  Fig.  83.  The  other 


FIG.  83 

end  of  the  lashing  may  hook  into  a  smaller  fall  for 
holding  back  and  preventing  things  from  going  too 
fast,  also  for  making  the  lashing  bite  onto  the  crank 
and  not  slip  round.  The  small  fall  has  its  line  take  a 
turn  or  two  about  a  post,  and  is  paid  out  by  one  man 
who  can  check  all  rolling  instantly.  As  the  shaft 
approaches  the  point  squarely  over  its  bearings,  checks 
should  be  ready  to  hold  it  in  place  ready  for  the  jacks. 
When  the  shaft  is  over  and  ready  to  be  lowered  to 
place,  it  will  do  no  harm  to  lead  off  lines  from  both 
cranks,  as  shown  in  Fig.  83.  These  will  prevent  the 
shaft  from  rolling  while  resting  on  a  jack.  The  cradle, 


RIGGING   FOR   A  HEAVY   LIFT 


99 


Fig.  80,  should  be  used  for  a  support  on  top  of  the  jacks 
as  the  surface  which  should  fit  pretty  well  will  tend 
to  keep  the  jack  in  place. 

Considerable  more  than  one-half  the  weight  of  the 
shaft  will  come  on  the  jacks  now,  for  they  are  so  near 
the  center  of  the  shaft  length.  As  a  solid  footing 
must  be  provided,  one  side  may  be  blocked  up  from 
the  generator  foundation  and  will  require  only  a  small 


FIG.  84 

amount  of  blocking.  Sometimes  both  sides  may  be 
fixed  in  this  way.  If,  however,  the  opening  is  too 
deep,  it  is  better  to  stand  two  10  X  10  upright  col- 
umns braced  to  the  foundation,  with  a  good  block 
for  a  bolster  on  top.  Then  a  cob  house  pile  of  block 
may  be  built  resting  partly  on  the  bolster  and  partly  on 
the  top  of  the  foundation,  extending  across  the  gap 
for  fly-wheel  and  generator  as  shown  in  Fig.  84.  There 


100  ERECTING   WORK 

is  just  about  room  enough  for  a  jack  at  each  end,  and 
the  blocking  is  all  done  from  the  frame  itself.  The 
first  aim  is  to  get  rid  of  the  long  timbers,  the  skids 
and  all  loose  blocking  which  is  spread  about  now  in 
quantity  and  a  trifling  raise  will  free  all  this  stuff. 
Only  one  end  rests  it  weight  on  a  jack  at  a  time,  and 
only  a  thin  block  can  be  removed  at  one  time,  for  of 


FIG.  85 

course  the  crank  checks  will  bind  on  the  frame  faces 
if  one  end  is  much  lower  than  the  other.  Some  blocks 
should  be  cut  of  length  to  fit  nicely  within  the  jaws  of 
the  frame,  as  shown  in  Fig.  85.  Before  the  shaft  is 
finally  settled,  while  up  about  an  inch  above  its  seat, 
all  dirt  should  be  carefully  blown  out.  Then  the  final 
lowering  may  come  and  the  jaws  filled  with  waste  and 
bagging  to  keep  out  everything  that  can  cut  a  bearing. 


BUILDING  UP  A  FLY-WHEEL 

A  MAN  will  not  boast  very  much  of  his  work  on  the 
fly-wheel  if  it  takes  over  a  day  to  get  all  the  section  in 
place  with  enough  bolts  driven  in  to  hold  the  thing 
together  over  night.  Sometimes,  it  does  take  longer 
than  this  if  the  rigging  is  not  all  ready,  and  particularly 
if  there  is  some  fitting  to  be  done.  The  man  who  does 
get  through  in  a  day  is  entitled  to  a  moderate  boast. 
His  speed  depends  upon  the  rigging  he  gets  up  to  handle 
the  sections;  there  are  eight  or  more,  and  it  pays  to 
get  up  something  which  can  be  handled  quickly. 
The  sections  will  come  in  the  door  and  be  rolled  up  in 
front  of  the  shaft  on  their  rollers  lying  flat  upon  the 
floor  in  the  position  shown  in  Fig.  86.  All  this  work 
has  been  done  with  crow-bar  and  winch  with  perhaps 
a  little  jacking.  When  the  section  is  once  up  of?  the 
ground  four  or  five  inches  it  is  not  a  bad  piece  to  handle. 
It  must  be  lifted  up,  turned  and  shoved  in  between 
the  hub  cheeks,  and  some  stout  lashing  should  be  pro- 
vided for  this  work.  The  first  hitch  will  be  shown  in 
Fig.  86.  It  is  not  intended  to  lift  the  section  here, 
but  simply  to  stand  it  up  ready  for  the  lifting  hold. 
Not  over  one-half  the  whole  weight  need  come  on  the 
lashing  here  and  the  piece  may  be  made  to  take  the 


102 


ERECTING   WORK 


position  shown  in  Fig.  87.  A  10X10  gin  pole  with  a 
good  head  block  furnishes  the  overhead  rigging  and 
six  parts  of  one  and  one-quarter  inch  rope  will  answer 


O 


FIG.  87 


for  the  hoisting  tackle.     No  lashing  used  as  a  sling  on 
these  heavy  sections  should  be  lighter  than  one  and 


IUILDING   UP  A   FLY-WHEEL  103 

one-half  inches  in  diameter.     A  single  sling  of  that 
size  has  all  it  should  do  in  lifting  half  of  this  weight. 

The  piece  will  stand  by  itself  when  in  the  position 
shown  in  Fig.  87,  and  the  hitch  may  be  shifted  for  the 
final  lift.  The  easiest  way  of  taking  hold  of  a  segment 
is  shown  in  Fig.  88,  but  stout  rope  will  be  required. 


Two  parts  of  2-in.  rope  will  lift  this  section,  but  the 
rope  must  be  new  and  in  prime  condition.  It  is  safe 
then  to  go  as  here  shown.  The  arm  will  not  hang 
horizontally  for  the  center  of  gravity  of  the  piece  is 
near  the  point  C  so  the  line  A  B  will  be  vertical.  This 
will  do  very  well  for  swinging  the  weight  on  the  gin 


104  ERECTING  WORK 

pole  by  letting  in  and  out  on  the  guy  falls.  The  arm 
may  be  lifted  with  a  light  fall  or  a  chain  tackle  to  bring 
it  up  horizontal,  approximately,  and  the  section  is 
ready  to  enter.  It  should  of  course  be  seen  to  that 
the  piece  goes  up  fairly  vertical  and  does  not  cant 
over  very  much.  A  little  twist  can  be  taken  out  by 
shoving  a  bar  into  one  of  the  bolt  holes,  but  not  much 
force  should  be  required  here.  The  hitch  itself  should 
be  made  central.  The  section  is  swung  up  ready  to 
enter  by  letting  off  on  the  back  guy.  It  should  enter 
a  little  way  of  its  own  accord.  It  may  not,  and  prob- 
ably will  not,  slide  away  down  to  its  place  by  itself, 
but  it  should  enter  without  forcing.  There  is  no  need 
of  the  fit  being  very  tight.  It  is  not  a  bad  plan  to 
caliper  both  arms  and  space  before  trying  to  enter 
at  all;  but  it  is  not  always  worth  while. 

Some  judgment  must  be  used  in  pounding  the  arm 
home.  The  tackle  holding  the  weight  should  be  swung 
forward  a  little  so  that  its  tendency  is  to  help  the 
piece  in.  Then  two  men  with  a  block  weighing  1 50  Ibs. 
swinging  it  as  a  ram,  ought  to  be  able  to  send  the  piece 
in  by  striking  at  D.  It  is  easy  to  get  up  more  force 
than  this  with  heavier  timber  and  more  men,  or  even 
to  rig  up  a  jack.  But  if  the  arm  starts  in  tight  it  will 
be  a  very  difficult  matter  to  force  it  out  again.  It  is 
better  to  file  the  faces  of  the  arm  and  ease  things  up  a 
little.  The  surface  is  a  large  one  to  file  over,  and  must 
be  kept  true;  but  there  is  usually  not  much  to  come 
off  for  the  arms  have  been  in  there  once,  and  if  they 
enter  hard  the  second  time  it  is  because  the  cheeks 
may  be  a  trifle  closer  together  this  time.  If  the  arm 


BUILDING   UP  A  FLY-WHEEL  105 

binds  a  little,  it  is  sometimes  possible  to  make  it  slide 
home  by  raising  and  lowering  a  little  on  the  main 
tackle,  enough  to  give  it  a  new  position.  As  soon  as 
one  of  the  holes  comes  in  place  the  first  bolt  must  be 
put  in,  and  the  other  two  follow  by  turning  on  that 
one  as  a  center.  The  bolts  themselves  will  fit  tight, 
but  may  be  driven  in  with  blows  from  a  sledge.  But 
in  driving  the  bolt  should  be  watched,  for  if  one  binds 
it  is  not  easily  gotten  out.  A  sledge  alone  will  not 
start  it,  and  it  is  frequently  almost  impossible  to  apply 
a  jack  to  any  purpose.  Cases  have  been  known  where  a 
tight  bolt  part  way  in  had  to  be  drilled  out  with  a 
ratchet.  Jobs  of  that  kind  take  days  and  tie  up  all 
other  work  on  the  wheel  in  the  bargain.  The  bolts 
and  holes  both  may  caliper  all  right,  but  sometimes 
the  hole  is  not  perfectly  straight.  The  progress  of 
the  bolt  must  be  noted  as  it  is  driven  in.  It  is  possible 
to  tell  with  almost  certainty  whether  the  bolt  is  grow- 
ing tighter  and  tighter  as  it  advances. 

When  one  section  is  in  place  and  all  three  bolts  are 
in  their  holes  with  nuts  slack,  it  is  possible  to  save 
some  time  by  choosing  the  best  section  to  put  in  next. 
So  far  as  the  amount  of  work  in  putting  in  the  sections 
themselves  is  concerned,  it  makes  no  difference.  The 
difference  comes  in  in  the  number  of  times  a  wheel 
must  be  turned  over  and  the  amount  of  force  necessary 
to  do  it.  The  most  natural  way  is  to  take  one  section 
after  another,  in  order,  leaving  only  one  section  as  a 
fill-in  to  complete  at  the  last.  This  method  places 
less  stress  than  any  other  does  on  hub  bolts  and  hub 
casting.  The  great  objection  is  that  the  whole  weight 


106  ERECTING   WORK 

practically  of  three  sections  will  have  to  be  lifted  at 
one  time  by  the  rigging  in  turning  the  wheel.  This 
will  be  apparent  from  Fig.  90,  which  shows  a  wheel 
with  eight  arms.  The  section  marked  i  is  put  in  and 
lowered  on  to  a  block  or  a  timber  across  the  front  face 
of  the  foundation.  No.  2  is  put  in,  and  then  both 
2  and  3  have  to  be  raised  before  the  block  can  be 
taken  out  to  let  those  sections  down  and  out  of  the 
way.  This  is  again  true  of  i,  2  and  3,  before  No.  4 
can  go  in,  and  this  same  heavy  lift  is  again  encountered 


FIG. 


by  the  fall  on  the  other  side  of  the  wheel  when  the  sixth 
section  is  put  in.  Each  section  does  help  to  hold  its 
neighbor,  however,  for  they  may  be  clamped  together 
with  a  temporary  bolt,  as  shown  at  the  right  of  Fig. 
89,  and  the  load  is  distributed  as  well  as  it  can  be. 
The  links  are  not  put  in  till  all  sections  are  in  place, 
but  it  is  plain  that  the  weight  of  No.  3  is  partly  borne 
by  2  and  i,  thus  relieving  the  shearing  load  on  its  bolts. 
In  lifting  these  three  sections  or  two  and  a  half,  per- 
haps, for  the  whole  weight  of  No.  i  is  not  lifted,  though 


BUILDING   UP   A   FLY-WHEEL 


107 


the  friction  of  the  shaft  about  makes  this  up,  it  is  clear 
that  the  hitch  should  not  be  made  on  the  arm  or  the 
rim  of  No.  3.  No.  i  is  the  arm  to  pull  on.  As  an 
offset  against  these  heavy  lifts  come  the  short  dis- 
tances of  movement  and  the  lifts  are  short.  For 
this  method  two  rigs  are  needed,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  wheel,  that  is,  at  opposite  ends  of  a  horizontal 
diameter  and  each  capable  of  lifting  three  sections. 


It  is  possible  to  decrease  this  load  if  the  arms  are 
not  too  heavy  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  bolts, 
and  can  safely  be  hung  out  straight  and  horizontal 
from  the  hub,  bringing  of  course  a  twisting  load  which 
must  be  resisted  by  the  shearing  resistance  of  the  three 
bolts  and  their  crushing  strength.  On  many  wheels 
the  bolts  are  ample  for  this,  and  if  the  rim  is  of  the 


io8  ERECTING  WORK 

steel-plate  rim  style,  the  bolts  are  more  than  adequate. 
The  method  is  shown  in  Fig.  90.  The  principle  is  to 
let  the  heavy  part  of  the  wheel  go  down  and  stay 
there.  The  rigging  must  be  stout  enough  to  lift  one 
section  and  at  the  same  time  turn  the  wheel,  and  one 
set  of  rigging  must  be  used  on  each  side  of  the  wheel 
as  before.  The  sections  are  all  put  in  in  the  position 
marked  i  and  the  first  section  takes  the  position  as 
shown  in  the  figures  on  the  outer  circumference  in  the 
figure.  Also  the  figure  shows  the  position  of  the 
sections  when  any  number  of  them  are  in.  For  in- 
stance, when  there  are  four  sections  in  they  take  the 
position  marked  A  4  and  move  to  position  A  5  when 
number  5  has  gone  in.  This  will  be  more  apparent  in 
Fig.  91. 

The  first  piece  is  put  in  as  shown  in  A  and  can  be 
lowered  to  the  bottom  position  shown  in  B.  Its  own 
weight  takes  it  there  and  the  fall  in  front  of  the  wheel 
is  slowly  lowered  off  till  the  rotation  stops  of  its  own 
accord  in  the  best  place  for  sliding  in  section  No.  2 
as  shown  in  B.  Now  the  first  fall  is  slaked  again  and 
the  wheel  stops  again  in  the  best  position  for  the  third 
section,  leaving  a  gap  precisely  at  the  bottom  as  shown 
at  C.  The  fall  is  again  slacked  off,  but  this  time  the 
wheel  does  not  roll  far  enough  to  allow  the  fourth  sec- 
tion to  enter,  and  it  must  be  helped  out  by  the  fall  back 
of  the  wheel,  though  the  latter  will  not  have  to  lift  as 
much  as  a  whole  section.  Now  in  D  there  are  two 
sections  on  one  diameter  which  balance  each  other, 
and  as  the  front  fall  is  let  off  the  other  two  sections 
govern  the  position  the  wheel  will  assume.  It  will  not 


BUILDING   UP  A   FLY-WHEEL  109 


no  ERECTING   WORK 

roll  quite  far  enough  for  the  fifth  piece,  and  a  little 
load  will  have  to  be  taken  by  the  back  fall,  when  the 
section  will  make  the  wheel  appear  as  shown  at  E. 
In  order  to  get  in  place  for  No.  6  the  back  fall  now  will 
have  to  lift  a  whole  section,  for  in  the  position  shown 
at  F  the  wheel  is  in  balance,  and  before  No.  6  throws 
in  its  weight,  the  section  directly  opposite  must  be 
held  by  the  back  fall.  A  full  section  will  rest  in  the 
back  fall  when  No.  7  is  put  in  as  shown  at  G,  but  as 
soon  as  No.  7  is  in  the  wheel  is  again  in  balance.  The 
back  fall  now  rolls  the  wheel  on  lifting  one  full  section 
and  the  last  piece  is  slid  in  place. 


XI 


THE    ERECTION    OF    HIGH-SPEED    CENTER- 
CRANK   ENGINES1 

THE  high-speed  center-crank  engine,  with  which 
this  article  deals,  is  seldom  sold  in  sizes  greater  than 
200  horse-power.  It  is  very  well  standardized  as  to 
design  and  the  cost  of  even  the  best  makes  is  com- 
paratively small,  so  that  the  cost  of  erection,  when 
this  is  done  by  an  erector  from  the  maker's  shop, 
forms  a  large  percentage  of  the  total  cost  of  the  engine 
ready  to  run.  The  railroad  fare  and  living  expenses 
of  the  shopman  are  usually  more  than  the  actual 
expenses  of  erection,  particularly  when  but  one  engine 
is  installed. 

To  avoid  this  unnecessary  expense  it  is  quite  com- 
mon for  the  purchaser's  engineer  to  erect  the  engine 
and  it  is  the  purpose  of  this  article  to  give  clear  and 
concise  directions  for  so  doing.  The  method  given 
is  that  used  by  most  professional  erectors.  It  should 
be  borne  in  mind  that  the  various  makes  differ  some- 
what as  to  details,  but  the  erection  as  a  whole  is  prac- 
tically the  same  for  all  makes. 

We  will  suppose  that  the  foundation  has  been  built 
with  due  regard  to  alinement  with  the  machine  to  be 

1  Contributed  to  Power  by  H.  V.  Hunt  and  C.  G.  Robbins. 


Ill 


112  ERECTING   WORK 

driven,  if  the  engine  is  belted,  or,  if  direct-coupled, 
with  the  building  or  other  predetermined  point;  that 
its  top  presents  an  even  surface,  and  that  the  anchor 
bolts  have  sufficie-nt  clearance  around  them  to  allow 
for  any  small  inaccuracy  in  setting  them.  Also  that 
the  engine  has  been  brought  from  the  railroad  and 
placed  on  the  engine-room  floor.  This  is  usually  a 
truckman's  job  and  is  contracted  for  a  lump  sum. 
Most  engines  of  this  type  are  provided  with  a  subbase 
or  foundation-box  under  the  frame,  high  enough  to 
allow  the  wheels  to  clear  the  floor  by  a  few  inches. 
Whatever  leveling  or  alining  is  to  be  done  to  set  the 
engine  must  be  done  to  this  box,  for  when  it  is  set  the 
whole  engine  is  set. 

The  foundation-box  will  be  left  on  blocks  or  rollers 
and  can  be  moved  directly  over  its  place  on  the  founda- 
tion, so  that  the  anchor  bolts  line  up  fairly  well  with 
their  respective  holes,  blocking  being  used  so  that  the 
bottom  of  the  box  is  about  i  in.  above  the  ends  of  the 
bolts.  It  is  seldom  that  the  bolts  are  so  set  that  they 
enter  the  holes  without  some  little  difficulty.  The 
easiest  way  to  place  the  box  is  to  remove  some  of  the 
blocking  until  the  box  rests  on  the  ends  of  the  bolts, 
leaving  the  remainder  of  the  blocking  about  £-in.  below 
the  bolt  tops. 

Then  when  the  holes  are  pushed  or  driven  over  they 
will  not  spring  back,  and  when  the  bolts  are  fair  with 
the  holes  the  box  drops  down  over  them  to  the  block- 
ing J-in.  below.  At  first  sight  it  appears  that  the 
threads  would  be  injured,  but  it  seldom  happens  that 
they  are  marred  in  the  least.  After  the  box  has  been 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK   ENGINES          113 

lowered  until  it  rests  upon  2-in.  planks,  the  leveling 
bolts  or  wedges  can  be  put  in  and  the  planks  removed. 
The  foundation-box  can  now  be  leveled  and  alined. 

Locate  on  the  machined  top  flange  of  the  box  the 
center  line  of  the  engine  and  the  center  line  of  shaft, 
making  the  marks  good  and  sharp  with  a  scribe  or 
penknife,  as  shown  in  Fig.  92. 


o 

o 

o* 

0 

0 

o| 

1 

CEN.  LINE  ENGINE            £ 

'       z 

v° 

X                     0 

oj 

p 

\                     U 

oj 

I                                       ii  i  J 

jrr 

FOUNDATION  BOX                         X"J 

rm                  i 

"H 

f  !  !                                              !  !                                         i     !  !   "^ 

FIG.  92 

If  the  engine  is  to  be  belted,  find  the  distance  E, 
Fig.  93,  from  the  center  line  of  the  engine  to  the  center 
line  of  the  driving-wheel.  Knowing  the  relation  that 
this  line  and  the  shaft  center  line  must  bear  to  the 
driven  machine,  a  convenient  and  accurate  method  of 
alinement  must  be  found.  That  in  Fig.  93  is  very 
good.  It  represents  the  case  of  alining  to  a  shaft. 
Attach  a  fine  line  to  a  convenient  point  A  on  the  shaft, 


II4  ERECTING   WORK 

extending  the  line  to  any  convenient  point  a  beyond 
the  engine.  Square  the  line  with  the  shaft  by  the  well- 
known  triangle  of  6,  8  and  10;  that  is,  measure  out 
from  A  6  ft.  on  the  shaft  to  point  C,  8  ft.  on  the  line  to 
point  B,  and  move  the  end  a  of  the  line  until  the  dis- 
tance B  C  measures  exactly  10  ft.  The  line  is  then 
square  with  the  shaft. 


FIG.  93 

Measure  the  distance  D  from  the  line  to  the  center  of 
the  driven  pulley  and  move  the  foundation-box  over 
until  the  distance  F  at  each  end  is  exactly  equal  to  the 
sum  of  the  two  measurements  D  and  E.  The  engine 
is  then  in  line  with  the  driven  pulley  and  square  with 
the  shaft;  the  belt-center  distance  G  is  not  important, 
any  inaccuracy  being  taken  up  by  the  belt.  If  the 
engine  is  direct-connected  to  a  pump  or  generator  the 
foundation-box  can  be  set  accurately  enough  for  all 
practical  purposes  by  direct  measurements  from  the 
building  or  other  given  point  to  either  of  the  center 
lines  on  the  box. 

For  leveling  the  box,  use  a  level  which  is  accurate 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK  ENGINES          115 

and  fairly  sensitive,  an  iron  body  level  being  preferable. 
Place  the  level  parallel  with  each  center  line,  thus 
leveling  both  ways,  and  make  the  necessary  adjust- 
ments with  the  wedges  or  adjusting  screws  under  the 
box. 

After  the  box  is  set,  leveled  and  alined  it  is  always 
advisable  to  check  up  all  the  measurements,  as  any 
errors  are  more  easily  corrected  now  than  later. 

If  these  measurements  are  all  correct,  the  box  is 
ready  to  be  grouted.  For  this  use  a  mixture  of  i  part 
Portland  cement  and  i  part  sand,  moistened  enough 
to  pack  well;  or  the  mixture  may  be  made  thin  enough, 
by  the  addition  of  water,  to  be  poured.  If  it  is  desired 
to  pour  the  grouting,  make  a  dam  of  clay  around  the 
outside  of  the  box,  about  i  in.  outside  of  the  lower 
flange,  and  pour  the  grout  from  the  inside  of  the  box 
until  it  completely  fills  the  space  between  the  founda- 
tion and  the  flange  of  the  box.  After  this  is  set,  it  is 
a  good  plan  to  fill  the  box  to  a  depth  of  about  6  in. 
with  a  mixture  of  i  part  cement,  2  parts  sand  and  3 
parts  broken  stone.  This  prevents  the  drum-like  noise 
sometimes  produced  by  the  large  hollow  box  and  in 
addition  securely  locks  the  engine  in  place.  This  is 
especially  desirable  where  the  engine  is  belted,  pre- 
venting any  twisting  from  the  pull  of  the  belt.  After 
making  sure  that  the  oil  catcher  and  oil  hole  are  clean 
the  box  is  ready  for  the  engine  frame.  The  frame  can 
be  brought  alongside  the  box  and  blocked  up,  raising 
one  end  at  a  time,  until  it  is  a  little  higher  than  the  top 
of  the  box.  An  old  rail  or  a  6x6  in.  iron-shod  timber, 
well  oiled,  should  now  be  placed  under  each  end  of  the 


n6 


ERECTING  WORK 


frame;  one  end  resting  on  the  foundation-box,  the  other 
on  the  blocking  under  the  frame,  as  in  Fig.  94.  The 
frame  can  then  be  easily  slid  sidewise  until  it  is  directly 
over  the  box.  After  making  sure  that  the  surfaces  are 
clean  and  that  there  are  no  burrs  or  rough  places  on 
either  box  or  frame,  it  can  be  lowered  until  it  rests  on 
the  top  of  the  box. 


FIG.  94 

Usually  the  frame  is  held  to  the  box  by  bolts  tapped 
into  the  latter.  Alinement  with  the  box  is  provided 
for  in  the  shop  either  by  making  two  diagonally  opposite 
bolts  a  reamed  fit,  or  by  dowel-pins  fitting  tightly 
into  holes  in  the  box  and  frame.  Some  makers  use 
anchor  bolts  extending  up  through  the  box  and  frame 
thus  doing  away  .with  the  tap  bolts  between  frame 
and  box;  in  such  cases  dowel-pins  are  used  to  line  the 
frame  to  the  box.  In  any  case  the  dowel-pins  or 
reamed  bolts  should  be  securely  in  place  before  the 
other  bolts  are  tightened. 

It  will  be  found  safer  and  easier  to  hoist  the  shaft 
and  cylinder  from  overhead  if  means  can  be  found  to 
suspend  chain  blocks  or  rope  tackle  at  the  proper 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK  ENGINES 


117 


points.  If  there  are  no  conveniences  in  the  building 
a  good  gallows  frame  rig  can  be  made  as  in  Fig.  95. 
For  ordinary  work,  the  uprights  and  cross-beam  may 
be  made  of  6x6-in.  timbers  and  the  bottom  pieces  of 


FIG.  95 

3-in.  plank.  Chain  blocks  of  sufficient  capacity  for 
the  weight  are  hung  from  the  center  of  the  cross-piece, 
and  i^-in.  pipe  rollers  will  allow  the  necessary  move- 
ment. 

For  belted  engines,  the  gallows  frame  should  be  wide 


n8 


ERECTING   WORK 


enough  to  clear  the  shaft;  but  in  direct-connected 
engines,  where  the  shaft  is  four  or  five  feet  longer,  it  is 
not  necessary  to  make  it  so  wide. 

Figure  96  shows  the  frame  in  use  in  placing  a  shaft. 


FRAME 

8 

1        « 

FOUNDATION 

1 

r 

J 

BOX 

lr 

^_ 

FIG.    96 

The  shaft  is  lifted  by  a  rope  sling  around  the  crank-pin, 
raised  until  it  is  high  enough  to  clear  the  bearings,  and 
the  gallows  frame  is  rolled  back  until  the  shaft  is  over 
the  bearings,  when  it  is  lowered  into  place.  Before 
lifting  any  of  the  weight  of  the  shaft,  a  block  or  pin 
must  be  placed  between  the  disks  to  prevent  the  over- 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK   ENGINES          119 

hanging  weight  of  the  shaft  from  springing  the  disks 
together.  For  this  purpose  a  i^-in.  bolt  with  a  nut, 
just  long  enough  to  go  between  the  disks,  may  be  used. 
The  bolt  is  slipped  into  place  and  the  nut  backed  off 
just  enough  to  take  the  strain  and  to  wedge  the  bolt 
tightly  in  place.  This  bolt  is  shown  in  Fig.  96.  A 
block  of  wood  or  a  piece  of  iron  or  pipe  wedged  tightly 
between  the  disks  will  of  course  answer  the  same  pur- 
pose. 
Another  way  to  put  in  the  shaft  is  shown  by  Fig.  97. 


FIG.  97 

Here  a  6x6-in.  or  an  8x8-in.  timber  is  put  under  each 
end  of  the  shaft  and  the  shaft  is  securely  held  in  place 
on  these  timbers  by  "chocks"  or  stops.  Each  end  of 
the  timbers  is  then  alternately  raised  by  levers  or 
jacks,  and  followed  up  by  blocking  until  the  shaft  is 
at  the  proper  hight,  as  shown.  The  chocks  can  then 
be  removed,  the  shaft  rolled  to  a  point  directly  over 
the  bearings,  and,  by  removing  the  blocking,  lowered 
into  place.  This  is  a  very  convenient  method  for 
placing  the  long  armature  shaft  of  a  direct-connected 
engine. 


120  ERECTING  WORK 

After  the  shaft  is  lowered  into  place  the  quarter- 
boxes,  if  there  are  any,  should  be  put  into  place  and 
adjusted  to  bear  against  the  shaft.  The  exposed  part 
of  the  shaft  should  then  be  coated  with  a  mixture  of 
lamp-black  and  oil,  and  the  shaft  be  rolled  around. 
This  blacking  will  be  rubbed  off  the  shaft  on  the  bear- 
ings at  the  high  points.  The  shaft  should  be  lifted,  the 
quarter-boxes  removed,  and  the  bearings  scraped  to  a 
perfect  fit.  The  caps  and  quarter-boxes  should  be 
fitted  and  scraped  in  the  same  manner,  and  thin  liners 
should  be  used  under  the  caps  to  prevent  pinching  or 
binding  the  shaft. 


The  engine  is  now  ready  for  the  cylinder.  This  may 
be  put  on  with  the  gallows  frame,  as  shown  in  Fig.  98. 
The  cylinder  is  moved  to  a  position  on  the  floor  in  line 
with  the  engine  center,  lifted  by  the  chain  blocks  to 
the  proper  level  and  the  frame  rolled  forward  until  the 
cylinder  is  in  place.  To  insure  the  easy  entrance  of 
the  bolts  connecting  the  cylinder  and  frame  it  is 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK   ENGINES 


121 


absolutely  necessary  to  have  the  cylinder  perfectly 
level  when  lifting  it,  and  to  see  that  the  steam-chest 
side  is  properly  placed. 

Unless  the  lagging  is  very  heavy,  it  is  best  to  remove 
it  before  putting  on  the  rope  lashing  by  which  it  is 
lifted. 

If  the  engine  is  a  tandem  compound  one,  put  on 
first  that  cylinder  which  is  next  the  frame,  place  the 
piston  for  that  cylinder  on  the  rod  and  put  it  into  the 


FIG.   99 

cylinder.  .Next  put  on  the  clyinder  head,  distance 
pieces,  etc.,  lifting  them  all  with  the  blocks  on  the 
frame.  The  other  cylinder  can  then  be  lifted  and 
placed  as  before  by  the  gallows  frame.  The  support 
can  then  be  placed  under  the  cylinder,  and  then  (and 
not  until  then)  should  the  chain  blocks  be  released. 

The  other  piston  should  then  be  put  on  the  rod,  the 
cross-head  put  into  place  and  the  rod  screwed  roughly 
into  the  head.  The  final  adjustment  for  equal  clear- 
ance is  not  made  until  the  connecting-rod  is  in  place. 

Figure  99  shows  a  method  of  raising  the  cylinder 
by  blocking.  The  cylinder  is  firmly  lashed  to  a  6  X  6-in. 
or  an  8  X  8  in.  timber,  the  ends  of  which  are  alter- 


122  ERECTING   WORK 

nately  raised  by  screw-jacks  and  followed  by  blocking 
until  the  proper  hight  is  reached.  Then  by  sliding 
the  timber  along  the  blocks  toward  the  frame  the 
bolts  or  studs  are  entered  and  the  cylinder  made  fast. 

There  is  usually  a  valve  guide  or  rocker  arm  to  trans- 
mit the  motion  from  the  eccentric-rod  to  the  valve- 
stem;  this  can  now  be  put  into  place. 

The  governor  wheel  should  now  be  put  on  the  shaft 
and  pushed  on  until  the  eccentric-rod  when  connected 
to  the  eccentric-strap  will  line  up  with  the  pin  on  the 
valve-guide  or  rocker  arm.  The  eccentric  carrier  and 


TIMBER  TO  MCKAOAIIWr 


FIG.     100 


the  governor  are  usually  carried  on  the  wheel  inde- 
pendently of  the  shaft  and  for  this  reason  the  wheels 
were  not  put  on  as  soon  as  the  shaft  was  finished  - 
that  is,  the  wheel  could  not  be  put  on  until  the  eccen- 
tric-rod pin,  which  governs  the  wheel's  location,  was 
in  place.  To  exactly  locate  the  governor  wheel  on 
the  shaft  some  makers  put  a  set-screw  in  the  wheel 
hub  and  a  corresponding  pocket  in  the  shaft.  When 
the  screw  will  just  enter  the  pocket,  the  wheel  has  been 
pushed  on  to  the  proper  point.  In  lieu  of  any  other 
guide  the  method  first  described,  i.e.,  having  the 
eccentric-rod  line  up  with  its  pin,  is  sure. 

Figures  100,  101,  102  and  103  show  the  method  of 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK   ENGINES 


123 


raising  the  wheels  and  pressing  them  on  the  shaft. 
To  raise  the  wheel  to  the  proper  hight,  place  a  \\  or 
2-in.  plank  on  the  floor  so  that  when  the  wheel  is  rolled 
up  on  the  plank  it  will  just  clear  the  end  of  the  bear- 
ing. Roll  the  wheel  to  one  end  of  the  first  plank, 
place  another  plank  on  top  of  the  first  and  roll  the 
wheel  back  and  up  on  to  this  second  plank.  Repeat 
the  operation  until  the  wheel  is  at  the  right  hight  to 
be  worked  over  and  entered  on  the  shaft.  It  will 
usually  be  found  that  the  wheel  will  go  on  the  shaft 
freely  for  a  few  inches,  but  must  be  pressed  on  for  the 
remainder  of  its  bearing. 


[ 

GEEf-f 

0 

1*ROO 

•»^ 

0 

1 

o-< 

—  ^'BOLTS 

0 

( 

^SEPARATOR 

2  BARS  ABOUT 

1 

]t  e'x  i" 

5  X  1    X, 

g 

[N 

^ 

0 

FIG.     1 01 


For  this  purpose  a  pair  of  clamps  like  those  in  Fig. 
101  are  cheap  and  convenient  and  will  not  subject 
any  of  the  engine  parts  to  undue  stresses.  The  cross- 
pieces  of  this  clamp  consist  each  of  two  pieces  of  flat 
iron  f  or  i  in.  thick  and  about  i  in.  less  in  width  than 
the  space  between  the  crank  disks.  Each  pair  should 
be  bolted  together  with  three  f-in.  bolts  with  i|-in. 
spreaders  or  separators,  which  may  be  wood,  pieces  of 
pipe  or  old  nuts. 

The  rods  should  be  i  in.  in  diameter  with  two  nuts, 


124 


ERECTING   WORK 


and  should  have  about  ij-in.  thread  on  one  end  and 
12-in.  on  the  other. 
The  method  of  operation  is  shown  in  Figs.  102  and 


N 


N 


sr 


FIG.     102 


103.  Put  one  of  the  cross-pieces  between  the  disks, 
using  a  plate  P  to  keep  the  strain  off  the  disk  and 
counterbalance,  and  directly  on  the  end  of  the  shaft. 
Place  the  other  clamp  outside  of  the  wheel,  resting  it 


ELEVATION 
FIG.    103 


on  two  hardwood  blocks  bearing  against  the  face  of 
the   hub.     After   placing   the   bolts   in    position,    the 


HIGH-SPEED  CENTER-CRANK  ENGINES         125 

wheel  can  be  pressed  on  by  screwing  up  the  nuts  N  N. 
In  doing  this  be  careful  to  have  the  rods  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  shaft-center,  as  at  d  d,  Fig.  102,  and  to 
screw  the  two  nuts  N  N  an  equal  amount  as  nearly 
as  possible.  This  avoids  cramping  the  wheel  or  pull- 
ing it  on  out  of  line.  This  method  is  superior  to  jack- 
ing the  wheel  on  from  the  ouside,  as  it  puts  the  stress 
entirely  on  the  straight  piece  of  shaft  between  the 
disk  and  the  wheel  on  the  one  side  of  the  engine,  and 
cannot  spring  the  crank  or  cause  other  damages. 


FIG.    104 

Where  the  wheel  hub  is  split,  as  in  Fig.  104,  a  wedge 
can  be  driven  in  the  split,  opening  it  so  that  the  wheel 
will  go  on  easily.  In  such  cases  the  pinch  bolts  should 
be  heated  quite  warm  just  before  being  put  in  and 
tightened  up;  the  contraction  will  insure  them  against 
working  loose  after  a  period  of  use. 

The  keyways  in  wheel  and  shaft  should  be  made  to 


126  ERECTING   WORK 

coincide  or  match  after  the  wheel  is  on  a  few  inches 
and  before  the  clamp  is  put  on.  To  do  this  put  a 
block  of  wood  in  the  crank-pit  so  that  the  shaft  cannot 
complete  a  revolution.  Roll  the  engine  until  the 
crank  is  away  from  the  block,  then  roll  it  back  until 
the  crank-pin  strikes  the  block.  This  shock  will  shift 
the  wheel  a  little  on  the  shaft  and  can  be  repeated 
until  the  keyways  are  in  line.  In  driving  the  keys 
be  sure  that  they  do  not  bind  top  and  bottom. 

Next  the  connecting-rod  should  be  put  in.  First 
connect  the  rod  to  the  crank-pin,  leaving  the  other 
end  free,  first  coating  the  pin  with  lampblack  and  oil. 
Key  the  rod  up  tight  and  swing  it  to  see  if  the  other 
end  falls  in  the  center  of  the  cross-head  pin.  If  it 
does  not,  scrape  the  boxes  at  one  side  until  it  does, 
being  careful  to  leave  a  good  full  bearing  in  the  boxes. 
Repeat  this  operation  by  connecting  the  rod  to  the 
cross-head  pin  and  making  it  come  central  on  the 
crank-pin.  This  will  avoid  "side  lash"  and  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  try  it  with  the  crank-pin  at  both  ends 
of  the  stroke. 

If  there  is  any  doubt  about  the  shaft  being  square 
with  the  center  line  of  the  engine,  which  would  affect 
the  alinement  of  the  rod,  it  may  be  tested  before  the 
wheels  are  on,  as  shown  in  Fig.  105.  All  that  is  neces- 
sary is  to  place  a  true  straight-edge  across  the  planed 
cylinder  face  and  measure  from  it  to  the  surface  of  the 
shaft  at  each  side  of  the  engine.  These  distances  a  a 
should  be  equal  if  both  ends  of  the  shaft  are  of  the 
same  diameter.  The  crank  center  should  next  be 
trammed.  Fig.  106  shows  how  to  do  this.  Turn  the 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK   ENGINES 


127 


engine  forward  until  the  crank  is  15  or  20  deg.  from 
the  center.  Make  a  sharp  scribe  mark  A  on  guide  and 
cross-head.  Make  a  punch  mark  B  on  the  engine 
frame  near  the  crank  disk,  and  from  this  with  a  bent 


c 


FIG.    105 


tram  make  a  mark  C  on  the  disk  face.  Turn  the 
engine  over  until  marks  A  and  on  the  guide  and  cross- 
head  again  coincide.  With  the  same  tram  and  from 
the  punch  mark  B  make  a  second  mark  D  on  the  disk. 


PIG.    1 06 

Divide  the  distance  C  D  with  a  pair  of  dividers  and  put 
a  punch  mark  E  exactly  half-way .  between  them. 
Turn  the  engine  until  the  tram  just  fits  the  punch 
marks  B  and  E;  the  engine  is  then  on  the  center. 


128  ERECTING   WORK 

Note  that  all  lost  motion,  if  there  is  any,  must  be  taken 
up  in  the  same  direction  in  all  operations. 

Now  the  engine  should  be  put  on  the  center  and  the 
piston-rod  screwed  into  or  out  of  the  cross-head  until 
the  piston  is  traveling  central  in  the  cylinder,  i.e.,  until 
the  clearance  is  equal  at  both  ends.  The  rod  can  be 
screwed  or  unscrewed  with  a  long  wrench  or  by  taking 
a  number  of  turns  of  rope  around  the  rod,  holding  the 
free  end  of  the  rope  and  unwinding  it  with  the  gallows 
frame  and  blocks.  This  will  frequently  start  a  tight 
rod. 

The  cross-head  jam  nut  should  now  be  made  tight 
and  the  cylinder  head  put  on.  The  valves  can  be  put 
in  and  set  and  the  governor  adjusted.  The  details  of 
these  vary  so  widely  as  to  prevent  any  instructions 
as  to  their  setting.  These  are  always  furnished  in  the 
minutest  detail  by  the  builders. 

The  throttle,  oil  cups,  lubricators  and  drain  piping 
may  now  be  placed,  the  engine  carefully  blown  out  to 
free  it  from  dirt,  etc.,  and  it  is  ready  for  steam. 

We  cannot  too  strongly  impress  upon  our  readers 
the  necessity  for  thoroughly  cleaning  and  examining 
each  part  before  erecting  it,  both  to  see  that  it  has 
sustained  no  damage  nor  become  filled  with  dirt  dur- 
ing transportation  and  to  save  labor  in  rehandling 
the  parts.  Before  closing  up  any  part,  such  as  cylin- 
ders, steam-chest,  crank-pit,  oil  catcher,  etc.,  it  is  well 
to  make  a  final  examination  to  see  that  no  loose  nuts, 
bolts,  sand,  gravel,  chippings,  etc.,  remain  inside  to 
give  trouble  sooner  or  later. 

Another  general  point  it  is  well  to  observe  is  that 


HIGH-SPEED   CENTER-CRANK  ENGINES          129 

in  tightening  a  number  of  bolts  which  hold  the  same 
part  in  place,  such  as  cylinder-head  bolts,  bearing 
bolts,  etc.,  an  equal  strain  should  be  taken  on  each 
bolt,  thus  always  keeping  the  part  held  by  the  bolts 
equally  tight  over  its  bearing. 


XII 

SOME  OF  THE   LIGHTER  WORK   IN 
ERECTING 

THE  only  hard  part  of  putting  the  links  into  a  fly- 
wheel is  in  finding  some  way  to  heat  the  links.  The 
link  should  be  heated  uniformly  throughout  its  length, 
and  it  is  almost  impossible  to  do  this  in  any  hand 
forge.  The  most  convenient  place  is  the  furnace  under 
one  of  the  plant's  boilers,  and  if  the  fire  can  be  spared 
it  is  the  cheapest  place.  A  link  will  weigh  something 
over  100  Ibs.,  and  is  neither  heavy  nor  hard  to  handle 


FIG.     107 

when  cold.  Two  men  can  shove  it  into  a  furnace  door 
and  place  it  anywhere  in  the  fire  with  ease.  It  may 
be  half  an  hour  in  heating  up  to  a  dull  red.  It  should 
not  be  necessary  to  heat  it  hotter  than  this.  The  rake 
will  haul  it  out  on  to  the  floor  and  an  eye-bolt  screwed 
into  each  end  will  make  handling  easy.  Two  men 
with  a  cart  stake  shoved  through  the  eye-bolts  Fig.  107 
will  carry  a  link  anywhere. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  rig  up  a  fall  swung  from  the 
130 


SOME  OF  THE   LIGHTER   WORK  IN   ERECTING      131 

fly-wheel  rim  to  lift  the  link  into  place.  It  is  not  heavy 
but  men  cannot  hold  the  thing  while  it  is  being  shoved 
in,  for  it  throws  out  a  lot  of  heat.  The  fall  hooks 
right  into  the  top  eye-bolt  and  a  few  light  blows  drive 
the  thing  home.  Usually  about  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch 
is  allowed  for  the  shrink;  that  is,  the  link  is  finished 
up  TV-in.  short.  But  whatever  this  allowance  is,  it 
should  not  be  so  much  that  the  link  will  not  go  in 
readily  when  at  a  dull  red  heat.  If  the  links  are 
finished  up  too  short  some  stock  should  be  machined 
off.  It  is  better  to  let  it  be  done  by  machine,  too,  for 
the  biting  surface  should  be  kept  square  and  have  a 
good  bearing.  If  this  TVin.  looks  small  let  it  be  con- 
sidered how  much  of  a  twist  would  have  to  be  given  a 
wrench  to  make  TVin.  in  the  length  of  a  bolt  4  in.  in 
diameter  and  2  ft.  long  when  the  parts  were  already 
iron  and  iron.  Too  much  allowance  will  require  too 
hot  a  link  and  if  the  link  is  hot  enough  it  will  stretch 
permanently  without  biting  much  of  anything. 

When  the  link  is  once  in,  it  will  do  no  harm  to  cool 
it  off  with  water  till  it  bites  and  holds  itself  in  place. 

Links  may  be,  and  have  been,  heated  in  a  wood  fire, 
built  on  the  open  ground.  The  heat  is  certainly  a 
good  one,  for  the  fire  should  be  large;  but  the  process 
is  a  very  slow  one.  It  will  take  at  least  one  man's 
time  to  collect  wood  to  burn,  and  the  fire  is  torn  down 
every  time  a  link  is  taken  out.  Still  this  method  is 
always  possible,  and  that  is  a  virtue,  for  there  is  not 
much  in  the  heating  line  that  cannot  be  done  with  a 
large  open  wood  fire.  A  little  time  may  be  gained  by 
rigging  up  an  open  grate  with  bars  or  rods  of  iron  for 


132 


ERECTING  WORK 


grate-bars,  resting  on  a  few  bricks  laid  so  as  to  catch 
the  wind  for  draft  and  more  brick  laid  on  top  to  form 
a  short  flue  18  in.  long,  perhaps,  something  as  shown 
in  Fig.  1 08.  Also  a  sheet  of  iron  may  well  be  laid  over 


J L 


J L 


I    .     I 


1,11,1 


I    .     » 


J L 


J L 


I     .     I 


J L 


I    .    I 


I    ,    I 


I  .  I  ;  i  .  i 


FIG.    I 08 

the  top  of  the  link,  boring  a  hole  for  the  escape  of 
smoke.  This  holds  the  heat  in  better  and  tends  to 
heat  both  sides  at  once.  But  the  outfit  is  not  a  very 
good  one  at  best. 

In  shrinking  in  links  it  is  common  to  follow  around 
on  one  side  for  a  way  before  doing  anything  on  the 
other.  This  method,  or  any  other  method,  is  all  right 
provided  it  does  not  pull  things  together  in  one  place 
and  open  them  up  in  another,  due  to  some  spots 
yielding  more  readily  than  do  others.  This  must  be 
watched  and  evened  up  by  working  where  the  open- 
ings tend  to  come.  There  is  rarely  any  trouble  found 


SOME   OF  THE  LIGHTER  WORK  IN  ERECTING      133 

in  the  fit  of  the  wheel  itself,  for  the  wheel  has  been 
together  once  before  for  the  turning,  but  the  links 
themselves,  of  course,  have  never  been  in  the  sockets. 

The  hub  bolts  will  have  to  be  made  good  and  tight, 
and  this  is  best  done  with  a  short  stout  wrench  and  a 
sledge-hammer.  They  fit  tight  in  the  holes  when  cold 
and  evidently  cannot  be  put  in  hot.  All  these  nuts 
should  be  watched  after  the  engine  has  carried  its  first 
loads,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  go  over  them  all  again 
and  give  them  an  extra  pinch,  after  the  first  runs.  If 
a  bolt  works  loose,  there  is  usually  some  cause  for  it, 
and  the  very  fact  that  it  wants  to  work  loose  is  a  reason 
for  wanting  to  keep  it  tight.  The  best  method  of  mak- 
ing rules  for  the  care  of  a  wheel  is  to  watch  each  wheel 
itself  and  prescribe  remedies  for  the  cases  as  they 
appear,  measuring  all  the  facts  carefully. 

The  cross-head  of  an  engine  having  bored  guides  will 
require  a  little  patience  in  being  gotten  into  its  place, 
twisted  up  and  rested  on  its  wedges.  It  is  not  heavy, 
but  it  has  to  go  where  little  can  be  arranged  to  lift  it. 
It  must  go  in  on  its  side,  and  after  it  has  gotten  seem- 
ingly beyond  control  it  must  be  stood  upright  and  the 
wedges  put  in.  The  guides  are  bored  out  concentric 
with  the  engine's  center  line,  and,  so  far  as  the  bore 
is  concerned,  it  would  be  possible  to  make  the  cross- 
head  revolve  when  the  shoes  are  in,  and  so  it  is  possible 
to  put  a  cross-head  in  and  roll  it  up  in  place  in  the  guide 
while  the  shoes  are  in.  But  in  order  to  do  this  the 
piece  must  be  in  line  with  the  engine,  for  the  new 
shoes,  even  when  slacked  away  off,  do  not  allow  much 
play;  and  it  is  a  mean  thing  to  line  up  and  hold  in  line 


134 


ERECTING  WORK 


while  it  is  being  turned  on  nothing.  It  is  easier  to 
leave  off  both  shoes  and  enter  them  when  the  cross- 
head  is  standing  in  place. 

The  pistons  are  best  put  on  to  their  rods  before  either 
piston  or  rod  are  put  into  the  cylinder.  Bull-rings  and 
packing-rings  may  well  be  taken  off  and  the  piston  head 
with  its  rod  swung  from  the  gin  pole,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  109.  It  can  be  made  to  balance  by  a  man  at  the 


FIG.  109 

end  of  the  rod  and  nicely  steered  through  the  throat 
of  the  stuffing-box.  The  stuffing-box  gland  must  not 
be  forgotten,  and  the  nut  on  the  rod  back  of  the  cross- 
head  should  be  screwed  away  on  out  of  the  way.  A 
good,  stiff  piece  of  plank  should  be  cut  off  just  the 
length  to  rest  across  the  cylinder  barrel  and  keep  the 
piston  up  central  with  the  cylinder  bore,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1 10.  The  thread  will  enter  easily  if  the  parts  are 
in  line  and  the  piston  screwed  home  by  a  wrench  on  the 
nut  back  of  the  piston,  and  the  clearance  divided  up, 
after  which  both  large  nuts  may  be  set  up  hard.  The 
striking  points  should  be  marked  on  the  slides  for 


SOME   OF  THE   LIGHTER   WORK   IN   ERECTING      135 


future  reference.  All  the  running  gear  and  all  the  valve- 
gear  is  lifted  easily  and  put  in  place  by  the  gin  pole, 
and  the  fly-wheel  is  turned  in  the  direction  it  is  to  run 


FIG.     I 10 


for  the  valve  setting  by  the  same  means.     Journals^ 
and  boxes  should  be  left  slack  at  first,  their  possible 
closeness  being  determined  by  the  fits  and  by  the  care 
with  which  the  erectors  line  the  machine  up. 


INDEX 

PAGE 

Anchorages  on  a  roadway    32 

Barrel,  slinging  a 25 

Basket  hitch   18 

Bitting-rolling  hitch 18 

Bolts,  foundation 9, 14 

hub,  tightening 133 

tightening 1 29 

Bottle  hitch 23 

Bowlines    22 

Brick  foundations 15 

Building  up  a  fly-wheel 101 

Capstan  head  used  in  hauling  machinery 27 

Center  line  of  cylinder    n 

line  of  engine    113 

line  of  shaft n,  113 

lines   16 

Chocks 94,  1 19 

Clamps 123 

Clevis 91 

Cob  house  blocking 37,  79 

Concrete  foundations i,  7 

Connecting-rod,  putting  in 1 26 

Crank  center,  tramming 126 

-shaft,  raising  a 36 

-shaft,  unloading    75 

Cross-head,  placing 133 

Cylinder  center  line n 

137 


138  INDEX 

PAGE 

Cylinder,  moving  a 64 

raising  by  blocking    121 

Dead  man,  locating 34 

Engine  foundations  i 

high-speed  center-crank,  erection  of in 

Erecting,  lighter  work  in    130 

Erection  of  high-speed  center-crank  engines in 

Fly-wheel,  building  up  101 

sections,  handling 52 

Forces  foundations  must  resist    3 

Foundation  bolts  9,  14 

-box  of  engine 112 

Foundations  i 

brick .' 15 

concrete 7 

in  soft  and  moist  ground  2 

Framing 37 

Gallows  frame  rig    117 

Gin  pole 44,  55 

Grouting  foundation-box    115 

Guy  falls,  arrangement 49 

Hauling  heavy  machinery  through  city  streets 26 

Hitch  of  lashing  for  hook 50 

on  receiver 58 

Hitches  ...    18 

Horizontal  turbine 7 

Hub  bolts,  tightening    133 

Inclines,  building 37 

Inertia  forces 3 

Jacks  against  walls    43 

for  handling  shaft 96 


INDEX  139 

PAGE 

Jacks  used  in  handling  cylinder  65,  72,  78, 85,  86,  88 

used  in  hauling  machinery 26 

Jury  mast  knot 23 

Knots 18 

Lighter  work  in  erecting 130 

Links,  heating  and  handling    130 

Locating  a  dead  man    34 

Luff  tackle  used  in  hauling  machinery    27 

Machinery,  hauling  through  city  streets    26 

Main  frame,  handling •'  •  •  •  74 

Molds  for  concrete  foundations 8 

Moving  a  cylinder 64 

Pillow-block  section,  handling 74 

Pistons,  adjusting 134 

Raising  a  shaft 36 

cylinder  by  blocking    121 

wheels  and  pressing  on  shaft „ . . .  123 

Receiver,  handling 54 

rigging  for 52 

Reciprocation  forces    3 

Rigging  for  a  heavy  lift    89 

for  receiver    52 

Rollers,  arrangement  in  unloading  cylinder    80,  85,  86,  88 

for  moving  shaft 43 

on  an  incline 94 

proper  angle  for 68 

Rope  sizes 93 

Rotation  forces , 3 

Runway  along  car 81 

on  an  incline 36 

Setting  turbines  on  concrete  foundation 12 

vertical  reciprocating  engine  on  concrete  foundation 12 


140  INDEX 

PAGE 

Shaft  center  line 1 1 

raising  a 36 

unloading 75 

Sheepshank 20 

Sizes  of  rope 93 

Slide  section,  handling    45.  74 

Slinging  a  barrel 25 

Snatch  block 48,  50 

Splice,  endless-wound    22 

Stone  jacks   65,  83 

Templet,  how  to  set    ' 9 

Tightening  bolts 129 

hub  bolts 133 

Tramming  crank  center   1 26 

Turbine,  horizontal 7 

setting  on  concrete  foundation 12 

vertical 7 

Unloading  a  heavy  shaft 75 

Vertical  reciprocating  engine,  setting  on  concrete  foundation  .  12 

strain  on  foundations 3 

turbine 7 

Vibration,  avoiding    14 

Wheel,  raising  and  pressing  on  shaft 1 23 

Winch,  hand 31 

Work  for  a  gin  pole 44 


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